The Wayfarer's Walk
View toward Newbury
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Woodland near Walbury Hill
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Inkpen Beacon to Highclere
View from Walbury Hill
Saturday 30 January 2016
It is always exciting to start a new long distance path. I've chosen this one because it is on higher ground and that will hopefully mean less mud. The Wayfarer’s Walk starts on one of the the highest chalk hills in southern England. A couple of years ago my daughters and me walked a section of this path further along at Watership Down and I remember thinking that I would love to carry on walking all the way to the South Coast. I loved the windswept ridge walk with wide ranging views over the Kennet Valley on one side and North Hampshire on the other.
When planning the walk I realised that this would be very challenging in terms of getting to and from the path by public transport. It can be done though even though today I only managed a short stretch of the Wayfarers Walk despite walking for more than five hours. I took the train to Bedwyn and immediately followed an uphill footpath (muddy) first through a meadow and then a woodland (still muddy) but soon I reached a clearing and there was now a much improved path. I enjoyed walking in solitary contentment – just me and the trees. There was even some artwork to admire. An owl was carved on top of a tree stump and a human face on another. The track continued through Bedwyn Brail, a lovely woodland. Coming out the other side of the wood I got a first glimpse of the downs. The views opened up and as I walked through open countryside towards the hills. I had to follow a road uphill for a while and as I gained height I spotted the Wilton Windmill. It is a working windmill - they still make flour there. No time for a detour today though.
At last I reached the track which now took me upwards and westwards over the ridges of the North Wessex Downs. Although I still had a lot of walking to do to reach the start of the Wayfarer’s Walk it felt like I had arrived. I was now on the Mid Wilts Way – the first of no fewer than four long distance walks I would tread on today. The track is a byway which means that horses, cycles and 4x4 vehicles are allowed to use it. I don’t mind sharing but unfortunately the vehicles do cause a lot of damage and deep ruts were proof of this. At first this was ok as there was a nice grassy bit to walk on between the ruts and I enjoyed walking gently uphill, the breeze in my hair and red kites soaring above. I seemed to have the entire countryside to myself. Soon however I had to negotiate some serious mud before the path headed uphill to Ham Hill. Here the gorse shrubs were blooming although we’re still in January.
Now came the best bit of the walk. Inkpen Hill (the start of the Test Way and the Wayfarer’s Walk), Gallows Down and Combe Gibbet followed by Walbury Hill. The chalky path was well-maintained here and there were actually quite a few people about. I was hoping that maybe and ice cream or snack van might have found its way up here but it was not to be!
I finished my lunch while continuing the walk. Soon after leaving Walbury Hill behind me I had to let a 4x4 vehicle pass – there were huge puddles here (more like mini lakes) I was clinging to a shrub for safety just because it was so slippery. The driver of the vehicle was actually very considerate and slowed to walking pace while passing me. After a short stretch on a tarmacked track the path then veered away from the track and became increasingly muddy again. After sinking ankle-deep into the mud I decided I needed to find an alternative parallel route through the adjacent woodland. It appeared that other walkers had the same idea as there was a semblance of a path. Not only did this secluded wood provide a convenient toilet break but it unexpectedly turned this section into a thoroughly enjoyable walk through an enchanted forest and definitely a highlight of the day. Returning to the proper path the going got better and there was an enjoyable uphill section with good views towards Newbury and every now and again Highclere Castle (famous around the world as the setting for Downton Abbey). At the top of the hill I had to turn off Wayfarers and join the Brenda Parker Way to Highclere.
I had to speed up a bit now as I had a bus to catch in Highclere. The light was also starting to fade. Luckily the BP Way was well signposted and led through varied countryside (along a stream, across fields, and through another pretty woodland) but was often muddy.
I reached Highclere and found the bus stop with about 10 minutes to spare. There was no-one else waiting and I was a little concerned about the bus stopping on this main road as there was no lay-by. I saw the bus approaching and waved it down but thought it wasn’t going to stop as it didn’t seem to slow down. It did stop eventually nearly causing an accident as the driver behind the bus had to slam on his brakes! As I got on the bus I found the female bus driver in a bit of a state as the sudden braking caused one of the passengers to fall off her seat! It was obvious that she didn’t know the route very well and didn’t know where the bus stops were. There was a guard on the bus as well and he said that the driver didn’t see me because I was wearing dark clothing! Excuse me, but since when did one have to wear hi-viz to catch a bus? I would suggest to the bus company (Stagecoach) that they install a light at this bus stop. To the good people of Highclere and other country dwellers: use your buses or lose them.
Thank goodness the rest of the journey home was straight forward. Once home I checked the football result and was pleased to learn that we won 4:0 against Walsall in the FA Cup.
My highlights:
Wildlife:
Useful information
Transport:
It is always exciting to start a new long distance path. I've chosen this one because it is on higher ground and that will hopefully mean less mud. The Wayfarer’s Walk starts on one of the the highest chalk hills in southern England. A couple of years ago my daughters and me walked a section of this path further along at Watership Down and I remember thinking that I would love to carry on walking all the way to the South Coast. I loved the windswept ridge walk with wide ranging views over the Kennet Valley on one side and North Hampshire on the other.
When planning the walk I realised that this would be very challenging in terms of getting to and from the path by public transport. It can be done though even though today I only managed a short stretch of the Wayfarers Walk despite walking for more than five hours. I took the train to Bedwyn and immediately followed an uphill footpath (muddy) first through a meadow and then a woodland (still muddy) but soon I reached a clearing and there was now a much improved path. I enjoyed walking in solitary contentment – just me and the trees. There was even some artwork to admire. An owl was carved on top of a tree stump and a human face on another. The track continued through Bedwyn Brail, a lovely woodland. Coming out the other side of the wood I got a first glimpse of the downs. The views opened up and as I walked through open countryside towards the hills. I had to follow a road uphill for a while and as I gained height I spotted the Wilton Windmill. It is a working windmill - they still make flour there. No time for a detour today though.
At last I reached the track which now took me upwards and westwards over the ridges of the North Wessex Downs. Although I still had a lot of walking to do to reach the start of the Wayfarer’s Walk it felt like I had arrived. I was now on the Mid Wilts Way – the first of no fewer than four long distance walks I would tread on today. The track is a byway which means that horses, cycles and 4x4 vehicles are allowed to use it. I don’t mind sharing but unfortunately the vehicles do cause a lot of damage and deep ruts were proof of this. At first this was ok as there was a nice grassy bit to walk on between the ruts and I enjoyed walking gently uphill, the breeze in my hair and red kites soaring above. I seemed to have the entire countryside to myself. Soon however I had to negotiate some serious mud before the path headed uphill to Ham Hill. Here the gorse shrubs were blooming although we’re still in January.
Now came the best bit of the walk. Inkpen Hill (the start of the Test Way and the Wayfarer’s Walk), Gallows Down and Combe Gibbet followed by Walbury Hill. The chalky path was well-maintained here and there were actually quite a few people about. I was hoping that maybe and ice cream or snack van might have found its way up here but it was not to be!
I finished my lunch while continuing the walk. Soon after leaving Walbury Hill behind me I had to let a 4x4 vehicle pass – there were huge puddles here (more like mini lakes) I was clinging to a shrub for safety just because it was so slippery. The driver of the vehicle was actually very considerate and slowed to walking pace while passing me. After a short stretch on a tarmacked track the path then veered away from the track and became increasingly muddy again. After sinking ankle-deep into the mud I decided I needed to find an alternative parallel route through the adjacent woodland. It appeared that other walkers had the same idea as there was a semblance of a path. Not only did this secluded wood provide a convenient toilet break but it unexpectedly turned this section into a thoroughly enjoyable walk through an enchanted forest and definitely a highlight of the day. Returning to the proper path the going got better and there was an enjoyable uphill section with good views towards Newbury and every now and again Highclere Castle (famous around the world as the setting for Downton Abbey). At the top of the hill I had to turn off Wayfarers and join the Brenda Parker Way to Highclere.
I had to speed up a bit now as I had a bus to catch in Highclere. The light was also starting to fade. Luckily the BP Way was well signposted and led through varied countryside (along a stream, across fields, and through another pretty woodland) but was often muddy.
I reached Highclere and found the bus stop with about 10 minutes to spare. There was no-one else waiting and I was a little concerned about the bus stopping on this main road as there was no lay-by. I saw the bus approaching and waved it down but thought it wasn’t going to stop as it didn’t seem to slow down. It did stop eventually nearly causing an accident as the driver behind the bus had to slam on his brakes! As I got on the bus I found the female bus driver in a bit of a state as the sudden braking caused one of the passengers to fall off her seat! It was obvious that she didn’t know the route very well and didn’t know where the bus stops were. There was a guard on the bus as well and he said that the driver didn’t see me because I was wearing dark clothing! Excuse me, but since when did one have to wear hi-viz to catch a bus? I would suggest to the bus company (Stagecoach) that they install a light at this bus stop. To the good people of Highclere and other country dwellers: use your buses or lose them.
Thank goodness the rest of the journey home was straight forward. Once home I checked the football result and was pleased to learn that we won 4:0 against Walsall in the FA Cup.
My highlights:
- Far reaching views and big sky on ridge walk
- Combe Gibbet and Gallows Downs
- Enchanted wood
- Views of Highclere Castle
Wildlife:
- Red kites, songbirds, pheasants, sheep and cows
Useful information
Transport:
- Train Reading (Theale) to Bedwyn
- Return: Bus from Highclere to Newbury; train Newbury to Theale (Reading)
- Nothing en route and no toilets either.
View towards Highclere Castle
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Snowdrops near Highclere
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