Walks in Sithonia (and Kassandra)
Walking among olive trees
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Elia Beach
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Entrance to our home for this week
Saturday 7 May 2022
After the early morning flight to Thessaloniki we met some of our group as we exited passport control and the luggage retrieval hall and had an early opportunity to get to know each other. Then we were transferred to the Athena Pallas Hotel in Sithonia in the hotel's minibus. Just eight of us (including the walk leader), with two more expected to join us later, will be on this holiday. We were welcomed by the friendly staff with a refreshing drink. I couldn't wait to see my room and to walk around the expansive grounds and down to the beach. At our first pre-dinner meeting by the pool, Rod gave us details about tomorrow's walk ...... and whetted our appetite by talking about the the sumptious dinner buffet we were about to experience!
St Paul's Chapel
Sunday 8 May 2022
For our first circular walk we set off from the hotel and, after crossing the coastal road, a track led uphill through olive groves and pine woods. After a steady climb we reached St Paul's Chapel, situated in a shady setting by a natural spring, with views down towards the coast. From here a path continued uphill through picturesque pine woods, scattered with large boulders. One of these boulders was called St Peter's Rock. After reaching a flat and sandy plateau, a track returned us to St Paul's Chapel where an enormous picnic (prepared by the hotel) was waiting for us! We ate as much as we could - and packed away some more. I also had a first taste of Ouzo (yuck)!
Fully refreshed and re-fuelled we were ready for the downhill walk, enjoying some beautiful views of the Sithonia coastline and as far as the more distant Kassandra peninsula. On reaching the coast we had time to stop for a refreshing drink at a seaside taverna, which was very helpful in getting to know each other a bit better. Of course, being in a small group helps when it comes to remembering names! It would usually take me a few days but I've mastered that already! Leaving the taverna, Jan had a bit of a mishap. She tripped and fell on the steps up towards the road, resulting in a cut lip. Thankfully her teeth were all still in place and she seemed ok on the short walk back to the hotel.
For our first circular walk we set off from the hotel and, after crossing the coastal road, a track led uphill through olive groves and pine woods. After a steady climb we reached St Paul's Chapel, situated in a shady setting by a natural spring, with views down towards the coast. From here a path continued uphill through picturesque pine woods, scattered with large boulders. One of these boulders was called St Peter's Rock. After reaching a flat and sandy plateau, a track returned us to St Paul's Chapel where an enormous picnic (prepared by the hotel) was waiting for us! We ate as much as we could - and packed away some more. I also had a first taste of Ouzo (yuck)!
Fully refreshed and re-fuelled we were ready for the downhill walk, enjoying some beautiful views of the Sithonia coastline and as far as the more distant Kassandra peninsula. On reaching the coast we had time to stop for a refreshing drink at a seaside taverna, which was very helpful in getting to know each other a bit better. Of course, being in a small group helps when it comes to remembering names! It would usually take me a few days but I've mastered that already! Leaving the taverna, Jan had a bit of a mishap. She tripped and fell on the steps up towards the road, resulting in a cut lip. Thankfully her teeth were all still in place and she seemed ok on the short walk back to the hotel.
The Taverna in Parthenonas
Monday 9 May 2022
The hotel's minibus dropped us off at a layby on the coastal road to Neas Marmaris. From here we started walking uphill towards the once deserted, but now thriving and picturesque village of Parthenonas, nestled on the slopes of Mount Itamos. After passing another small hillside chapel we soon arrived at the lovely village where our lunch was booked at a taverna. The owner, a German lady, prepared some local delicacies especially for us, and we ate in the shade of an ancient olive tree. Some of us could have quite happily stayed here all afternoon, perhaps with another glass of the refreshing local wine!
However, soon enough it was time to move on. We now descended through wild flower meadows, buzzing with bees, and the ubiquitous olive groves, on a good track before reaching a steep section, which needed naviagating along a narrow footpath. I enjoyed this section, shaded by pine trees; it felt almost alpine! We reached the bottom of the gorge where lizards sunned themselves on the rocks in the almost dry riverbed.
The walk continued towards the outskirts of Neas Marmaris where the minibus was due to collect us from a petrol station. The temperature had risen considerably on our descent towards sea level so we gratefully accepted Rod's offer of a refreshing lemonade from the petrol station fridge!
The hotel's minibus dropped us off at a layby on the coastal road to Neas Marmaris. From here we started walking uphill towards the once deserted, but now thriving and picturesque village of Parthenonas, nestled on the slopes of Mount Itamos. After passing another small hillside chapel we soon arrived at the lovely village where our lunch was booked at a taverna. The owner, a German lady, prepared some local delicacies especially for us, and we ate in the shade of an ancient olive tree. Some of us could have quite happily stayed here all afternoon, perhaps with another glass of the refreshing local wine!
However, soon enough it was time to move on. We now descended through wild flower meadows, buzzing with bees, and the ubiquitous olive groves, on a good track before reaching a steep section, which needed naviagating along a narrow footpath. I enjoyed this section, shaded by pine trees; it felt almost alpine! We reached the bottom of the gorge where lizards sunned themselves on the rocks in the almost dry riverbed.
The walk continued towards the outskirts of Neas Marmaris where the minibus was due to collect us from a petrol station. The temperature had risen considerably on our descent towards sea level so we gratefully accepted Rod's offer of a refreshing lemonade from the petrol station fridge!
Enjoying the wildflowers in Kassandria
Tuesday 10 May 2022
Today we visited Kassandra - the first (and lowest) of the three peninsulas jutting out from mainland Greece. After the scenic drive we arrived at the seaside town of Kriopigi. Here we started a circular walk which took us inland through olive groves, pine forests and along a dry riverbed to reach the attractive village of Kassandrino, just in time for lunch. The trip notes promised a snack lunch at a taverna. To our pleasant surprise we were served not one but two well-filled baps each, lovingly prepared by the friendly taverna owner's wife! That was followed by biscuits and coffee. However, it was soon time to drain the wine glass and continue walking. Just after leaving the village we had to drag ourselves up a steep(ish) hill but that climb was well worth it as the scenery at the top was lovely. We walked through a pine forest and had some lovely views of the coast. As the path took us slowly downhill Julie and Dave spotted some bee-eaters, flying in and out of holes in the cliffs. Here my binoculars proved their worth. These beautifully coloured birds were a pleasure to watch and I'm sure a tortoise will show up eventually! After some more lovely walking, admiring the wild flowers, we returned to Kriopigi where we had time for refreshments. Jan and I opted for a very cold and large fruit smoothie. Lovely! It's been an enjoyable walk and well worth the longer bus trip.
Today we visited Kassandra - the first (and lowest) of the three peninsulas jutting out from mainland Greece. After the scenic drive we arrived at the seaside town of Kriopigi. Here we started a circular walk which took us inland through olive groves, pine forests and along a dry riverbed to reach the attractive village of Kassandrino, just in time for lunch. The trip notes promised a snack lunch at a taverna. To our pleasant surprise we were served not one but two well-filled baps each, lovingly prepared by the friendly taverna owner's wife! That was followed by biscuits and coffee. However, it was soon time to drain the wine glass and continue walking. Just after leaving the village we had to drag ourselves up a steep(ish) hill but that climb was well worth it as the scenery at the top was lovely. We walked through a pine forest and had some lovely views of the coast. As the path took us slowly downhill Julie and Dave spotted some bee-eaters, flying in and out of holes in the cliffs. Here my binoculars proved their worth. These beautifully coloured birds were a pleasure to watch and I'm sure a tortoise will show up eventually! After some more lovely walking, admiring the wild flowers, we returned to Kriopigi where we had time for refreshments. Jan and I opted for a very cold and large fruit smoothie. Lovely! It's been an enjoyable walk and well worth the longer bus trip.
Fishermen at Neas Marmaris
Wednesday 11 May 2022
Today was a day off from walking so Jan and myself booked a seat on the hotel's minibus shuttle for a trip to the attractive seaside town of Neas Marmaris. The harbour area was particularly nice and we enjoyed the views across the sea to Kelifos Island (also known as turtle or tortoise island because of its shape) and the Kassandra peninsula. After our return, I attempted to finish Sunday's picnic leftovers, and later went for a refreshing swim in the clear waters of the hotel beach. That was lovely. Meanwhile, our walk leader thought he'd have a quiet day, perhaps catching up on admin, but the day ended in a stressful way when Richard, one of our walkers, went missing. He didn't turn up for the daily pre-dinner meeting, and was still was unaccounted for when the rest of us tucked into dinner. Rod and a member of the hotel staff checked his room (Richard was not there, but his phone was) and then went searching for him along the beach. We were all relieved when a waiter told those of us who were still lingering at the dinner table, that Richard turned up at the hotel. He'd wandered up the hill, got lost and stumbled off track across scrubland before finding his way back. I think he'll remember to take his phone next time! The evening was a bit chilli so none of us stayed long in the beach bar where a Greek folklore evening took place, after all we'll be up early again tomorrow for another walk.
Today was a day off from walking so Jan and myself booked a seat on the hotel's minibus shuttle for a trip to the attractive seaside town of Neas Marmaris. The harbour area was particularly nice and we enjoyed the views across the sea to Kelifos Island (also known as turtle or tortoise island because of its shape) and the Kassandra peninsula. After our return, I attempted to finish Sunday's picnic leftovers, and later went for a refreshing swim in the clear waters of the hotel beach. That was lovely. Meanwhile, our walk leader thought he'd have a quiet day, perhaps catching up on admin, but the day ended in a stressful way when Richard, one of our walkers, went missing. He didn't turn up for the daily pre-dinner meeting, and was still was unaccounted for when the rest of us tucked into dinner. Rod and a member of the hotel staff checked his room (Richard was not there, but his phone was) and then went searching for him along the beach. We were all relieved when a waiter told those of us who were still lingering at the dinner table, that Richard turned up at the hotel. He'd wandered up the hill, got lost and stumbled off track across scrubland before finding his way back. I think he'll remember to take his phone next time! The evening was a bit chilli so none of us stayed long in the beach bar where a Greek folklore evening took place, after all we'll be up early again tomorrow for another walk.
High up on the cliffs in southern Sithonia
Thursday 12 May 2022
We started today's walk by the beach in Porto Koufo in the southern area Sithonia. Leaving the harbour and beach we walked steadily uphill on a narrow path through yet more olive groves and scrubland. Soon we reached the southern tip of the peninsula where we enjoyed stunning views of the rocky coastline. Our viewpoint on top of the high cliffs provided an amazing spot for taking photographs! I think we were all a little reluctant to move on from this amazing place but we had a walk to complete! We now veered away from the coast, uphill at first, and then gently downhill to eventually emerge at a beautiful bay and sandy beach. We had time for a swim and I couldn't turn down the opportunity. I had a beautiful swim and when I spotted two black objects popping out of the water a bit further out I thought I was in paradise - swimming with dolphins! However, my bubble soon burst when my walk mates on the beach pointed out that the figures were a couple of divers! Luckily nobody could see my blushes. Well, it may not have been Paradise but the swim in the cool and clear waters was close enough to it. The tricky bit now was getting changed and putting on the walking boots without trapping sand everywhere. Thankfully, my walk mates are a lovely and patient bunch and were ready with useful tips. When I was ready we set off again and walked back to Porto Koufo where we had time for a light lunch and liquid refreshment at a taverna by the picturesque harbour.
We started today's walk by the beach in Porto Koufo in the southern area Sithonia. Leaving the harbour and beach we walked steadily uphill on a narrow path through yet more olive groves and scrubland. Soon we reached the southern tip of the peninsula where we enjoyed stunning views of the rocky coastline. Our viewpoint on top of the high cliffs provided an amazing spot for taking photographs! I think we were all a little reluctant to move on from this amazing place but we had a walk to complete! We now veered away from the coast, uphill at first, and then gently downhill to eventually emerge at a beautiful bay and sandy beach. We had time for a swim and I couldn't turn down the opportunity. I had a beautiful swim and when I spotted two black objects popping out of the water a bit further out I thought I was in paradise - swimming with dolphins! However, my bubble soon burst when my walk mates on the beach pointed out that the figures were a couple of divers! Luckily nobody could see my blushes. Well, it may not have been Paradise but the swim in the cool and clear waters was close enough to it. The tricky bit now was getting changed and putting on the walking boots without trapping sand everywhere. Thankfully, my walk mates are a lovely and patient bunch and were ready with useful tips. When I was ready we set off again and walked back to Porto Koufo where we had time for a light lunch and liquid refreshment at a taverna by the picturesque harbour.
Walking above Agios Nikolaos
Friday 13 May 2022
Our final Sithonia walk started and ended in the seaside town of Nikiti. It coincided with market day and we had time to browse or simply take in the hustle and bustle, smells and sights. This town is the centre of honey production in this part of Greece and I was tempted to buy some, but didn't fance carrying it with me all day.
We left the lovely old town on a road that took us uphill, past flower adorned stone buildings and a church, and then continued on a steep forest track. Eventually it levelled out and we walked among olive groves and woodland. We stopped for a drink by another remote little hilltop chapel, Agios Georgios, and then continued down to the Agios Nikolaos, the oldest village in the area. Here we had a good choice of tavernas and cafes for a lunch break. Jan and me had a light lunch in a shady courtyard garden of a taverna, just off the town square.
Soon it was time to continue the walk. I enjoyed walking on the narrow path, which, although sometimes on the steep side, was bordered by flowering shrubs that teemed with bees and butterflies. It really was lovely walking. At the top we enjoyed fine views of the sea and we delighted in the flower meadows and the beautiful butterflies that seemed to follow us. Eventually the path returned us downhill to Nikiti. We had time for a drink and snack ... I had a sudden craving for chocolate...
Our final Sithonia walk started and ended in the seaside town of Nikiti. It coincided with market day and we had time to browse or simply take in the hustle and bustle, smells and sights. This town is the centre of honey production in this part of Greece and I was tempted to buy some, but didn't fance carrying it with me all day.
We left the lovely old town on a road that took us uphill, past flower adorned stone buildings and a church, and then continued on a steep forest track. Eventually it levelled out and we walked among olive groves and woodland. We stopped for a drink by another remote little hilltop chapel, Agios Georgios, and then continued down to the Agios Nikolaos, the oldest village in the area. Here we had a good choice of tavernas and cafes for a lunch break. Jan and me had a light lunch in a shady courtyard garden of a taverna, just off the town square.
Soon it was time to continue the walk. I enjoyed walking on the narrow path, which, although sometimes on the steep side, was bordered by flowering shrubs that teemed with bees and butterflies. It really was lovely walking. At the top we enjoyed fine views of the sea and we delighted in the flower meadows and the beautiful butterflies that seemed to follow us. Eventually the path returned us downhill to Nikiti. We had time for a drink and snack ... I had a sudden craving for chocolate...
Our hotel complex
Saturday 14 May 2022
Today was moving day. I'd said my goodbyes to Lynn, Roland and Jan at last night's dinner at the Elia Beach restaurant - they are returning to England. The rest of us are transferring to Olympiada, a coastal resort further north in the Macedonia region. But, as we were not due to leave till after one, I took the opportunity for a pre-breakfast swim in the sea. Then, after enjoying a leisurely breakfast, packing up and checking out, I still had time for another walk up the hill to return to St Paul's Chapel. I missed the track and instead walked uphill along a road. From the quiet roadside I enjoyed some great views of the hotel and the coastline below. The only thing still missing were the tortoises. Having found the chapel, and refilled my water bottle with fresh spring water, I followed the 'proper' track downhill and arrived at the hotel in good time for the departure.
Today was moving day. I'd said my goodbyes to Lynn, Roland and Jan at last night's dinner at the Elia Beach restaurant - they are returning to England. The rest of us are transferring to Olympiada, a coastal resort further north in the Macedonia region. But, as we were not due to leave till after one, I took the opportunity for a pre-breakfast swim in the sea. Then, after enjoying a leisurely breakfast, packing up and checking out, I still had time for another walk up the hill to return to St Paul's Chapel. I missed the track and instead walked uphill along a road. From the quiet roadside I enjoyed some great views of the hotel and the coastline below. The only thing still missing were the tortoises. Having found the chapel, and refilled my water bottle with fresh spring water, I followed the 'proper' track downhill and arrived at the hotel in good time for the departure.
Near Porto Koufo
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Wild Flowers near Agios Georgios
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