Grand Union Canal Walk
Canal Boat Home at Croxley Green
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Grove Bridge
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Croxley Green to Berkhamsted
Cassiobury Bridge
Saturday 29 September 2018
I started this walk from Moor Park underground station – didn’t want to stray out of Zone 6, thus avoiding the need for an extension ticket. Travel can get a little complicated when considering cost as well as convenience but it’s all part of the preparation. The walk from Moor Park took me along leafy residential streets before an unavoidable stint on the narrow verge of a busy road. I also lost my way slightly in an industrial area before I found the Ebury trail (cycling route) which led to the footpath across Common Moor. Crossing the moor was delightful with only birds for company and a fitting approach to the ‘real’ walk. After crossing the River Gade and Grand Union Canal I was back on the trail and ready to resume the walk in Croxley where I left it back in July. There was a long line of boats moored here and, as during the previous section, the ingenuity and house pride of the residential boat owners not only provides a feast for the eyes but is also quite uplifting.
From here until where the M25 crosses the canal I was joined on the path by many walkers and cyclist. After passing underneath a couple of bridges (road and rail) the path continues west of Watford through the very pleasant Cassiobury Park. Not surprisingly lots of families took the opportunity of a sunny day to stretch their legs in the great outdoors. After Cassiobury Park it became a little quieter. A focal point is the white-painted Grove Bridge. Although impressive, I felt, it wasn’t quite in keeping with the other stone bridges. I found it too bright and elegant and found bridge 153 with its colourful graffiti much more appealing! Bridges and locks (and there are plenty on this stretch) add so much variety and, together with the boats, make canalside walking visually satisfying. They also help quantify your walking progress as both locks and bridges are numbered.
There now followed a quieter stretch, it felt almost rural for a while, with distant hills hinting at the nearby Chilterns and horses grazing in paddocks. I even spotted some sheep. The tranquillity was broken temporarily when the main M25 motorway and its traffic crossed above the path and canal. No doubt nearly all the people in the cars above have got absolutely no idea that they are whizzing across a beautiful waterway and walk. Where are they all speeding to?
I started this walk from Moor Park underground station – didn’t want to stray out of Zone 6, thus avoiding the need for an extension ticket. Travel can get a little complicated when considering cost as well as convenience but it’s all part of the preparation. The walk from Moor Park took me along leafy residential streets before an unavoidable stint on the narrow verge of a busy road. I also lost my way slightly in an industrial area before I found the Ebury trail (cycling route) which led to the footpath across Common Moor. Crossing the moor was delightful with only birds for company and a fitting approach to the ‘real’ walk. After crossing the River Gade and Grand Union Canal I was back on the trail and ready to resume the walk in Croxley where I left it back in July. There was a long line of boats moored here and, as during the previous section, the ingenuity and house pride of the residential boat owners not only provides a feast for the eyes but is also quite uplifting.
From here until where the M25 crosses the canal I was joined on the path by many walkers and cyclist. After passing underneath a couple of bridges (road and rail) the path continues west of Watford through the very pleasant Cassiobury Park. Not surprisingly lots of families took the opportunity of a sunny day to stretch their legs in the great outdoors. After Cassiobury Park it became a little quieter. A focal point is the white-painted Grove Bridge. Although impressive, I felt, it wasn’t quite in keeping with the other stone bridges. I found it too bright and elegant and found bridge 153 with its colourful graffiti much more appealing! Bridges and locks (and there are plenty on this stretch) add so much variety and, together with the boats, make canalside walking visually satisfying. They also help quantify your walking progress as both locks and bridges are numbered.
There now followed a quieter stretch, it felt almost rural for a while, with distant hills hinting at the nearby Chilterns and horses grazing in paddocks. I even spotted some sheep. The tranquillity was broken temporarily when the main M25 motorway and its traffic crossed above the path and canal. No doubt nearly all the people in the cars above have got absolutely no idea that they are whizzing across a beautiful waterway and walk. Where are they all speeding to?
The path continues north of the M25 through King’s Langley and along the western edge of Hemel Hempstead, away from the town centre shops and facilities. However, at Apsley Marina, there is a delightful vegetarian café and pizza restaurant. I stopped for coffee and cake, enjoyed outside in the sunshine. The cake was delicious and service first-class. (For people preferring a beer or other tipple there is also a pub, The Paper Mill, on the other side of the bridge.
Rural Scene at Winkwell
As happens quite often, when enjoying a pot of tea, time marches on a little too fast and the lowering sun reminded me that I have many more miles to go and need to get moving if I am to reach Berkhamsted in daylight. The legendary restoring powers of tea and cake have put a spring in my step and I enjoyed walking between the canal and the crystal clear waters of the river Bulbourne at Boxmoor. Leaving Hemel Hempstead (or rather the proximity of) I made good progress and soon spotted the busy and inviting Fishery Wharf Café across the canal. However, not only did I not need any more tea, I also didn’t have time to stop. I walked on passing a few more bridges and locks. I stopped to chat to (and offering to help) a boater opening a lock and he gave me some tips of how to find the station in Berkhamsted. Although this area is quite rural, the peace was broken every few minutes by trains thundering to and from London as the track (main line to Birmingham) follows the canal closely for several miles. I arrived in Berkhamsted as the sun was slowly setting on what has been a beautiful sunny day. The area outside The Boat Inn was busy with young people enjoying their Saturday evening. I left the canal here to get to the station and didn’t have to wait long for the next train to Euston.
Travel to and from the walk has taken near enough three hours each way, not helped by circle and district line closures for engineering works. However, there were suitable alternatives, and even the crush of people trying to board the same Victoria line train as me didn't detract from what has been a wonderful day.
Travel to and from the walk has taken near enough three hours each way, not helped by circle and district line closures for engineering works. However, there were suitable alternatives, and even the crush of people trying to board the same Victoria line train as me didn't detract from what has been a wonderful day.
My highlights:
Transport:
I think I will omit this information from now on. There are few public toilets and you are unlikely to find one when it is needed. Instead I use toilets when available at refreshment stops (café or pub) and at stations. Of course, impromptu al fresco comfort breaks behind shrubs and trees will occasionally be necessary!
- Walking through Cassiobury Park
- Tea and cake at Apsley Marina
- Locks and bridges
- Ducks, swans, a heron, coots and moorhens
- Birds (e.g. sparrows, goldfinches, blue and great tits, starlings, magpies, crows, song thrushes)
- Squirrels, horses
Transport:
- Train Reading to Paddington, tube (Bakerloo line) to Marylebone, train (Chiltern Line) to Harrow-on-the-Hill, tube (Metropolitan Line) to Moor Park (alternative tube stations are Rickmansworth or Croxley Green)
- Return: Train (West Midlands Line) Berkhamsted to Euston, tube (Victoria and Bakerloo lines) to Paddington; train to Reading
- Train stations
- Several pubs en route and a few in Berkhamsted
- Woody’s Café at Apsley Marina
- Fish and Chips take-away at Berkhamsted Station
I think I will omit this information from now on. There are few public toilets and you are unlikely to find one when it is needed. Instead I use toilets when available at refreshment stops (café or pub) and at stations. Of course, impromptu al fresco comfort breaks behind shrubs and trees will occasionally be necessary!
The Canal at Cassiobury Park, Watford
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Bridge 153, Hemel Hempstead
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