Lycian Way and the ancient Kingdom of Lycia
History and Scenery
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Wildlife
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First walk
Wednesday 8 May 2019
Having arrived yesterday in Antalya, we transferred today to Fethiye - our base for the next four days. The bus dropped us off on a wooded hillside above Fethiye and we walked on a shady footpath to a Muslim cemetery. We hadn't gone very far when rustling in the undergrowth alerted me to a thrilling first encounter with a tortoise! Excitement over, we continued walking downhill past some impressive ancient rock tombs and the ruined castle of Termessos on the outskirts of Fethiye. We ended the walk in the attractive harbour area where we had time for coffee or a cold drink or both (it was quite hot in town) before the bus took us to our hotel near Calis Beach.
Having arrived yesterday in Antalya, we transferred today to Fethiye - our base for the next four days. The bus dropped us off on a wooded hillside above Fethiye and we walked on a shady footpath to a Muslim cemetery. We hadn't gone very far when rustling in the undergrowth alerted me to a thrilling first encounter with a tortoise! Excitement over, we continued walking downhill past some impressive ancient rock tombs and the ruined castle of Termessos on the outskirts of Fethiye. We ended the walk in the attractive harbour area where we had time for coffee or a cold drink or both (it was quite hot in town) before the bus took us to our hotel near Calis Beach.
Kayakoy
Thursday 9 May 2019
Today we started walking on the hills above Fethiye and descended through the beautiful and fragrant countryside towards Kayakoy, passing small farming villages, grazing goats and delightful flower meadows on the way. We explored and walked through Kayakoy, an abandoned hilltop Greek village, which is now an open air museum. This large ghost village was given up by the Greeks when a deal was made that involved exchanging Greek and Turkish populations. Leaving Kayakoy the path continued uphill and we soon enjoyed stunning views of the sparkling deep blue sea far below. After a picnic lunch we descended to the beautiful resort and lagoon of Oludeniz. Lose rocks on the steep downhill path unfortunately caused Sue to slip and break an ankle. Thankfully, the emergency services were soon on the scene and they, as well as our guides, Veronica and Bez, dealt with the incident in the best possible way. Sue was taken to hospital and will need an operation.
The bus was waiting for us at the end of the walk and drove us to the seafront at Oludeniz where some of us braved the pebbles, cold sea and fierce waves for an invigorating swim, while others relaxed with a beer or coffee, before the drive back to Fethiye.
Today we started walking on the hills above Fethiye and descended through the beautiful and fragrant countryside towards Kayakoy, passing small farming villages, grazing goats and delightful flower meadows on the way. We explored and walked through Kayakoy, an abandoned hilltop Greek village, which is now an open air museum. This large ghost village was given up by the Greeks when a deal was made that involved exchanging Greek and Turkish populations. Leaving Kayakoy the path continued uphill and we soon enjoyed stunning views of the sparkling deep blue sea far below. After a picnic lunch we descended to the beautiful resort and lagoon of Oludeniz. Lose rocks on the steep downhill path unfortunately caused Sue to slip and break an ankle. Thankfully, the emergency services were soon on the scene and they, as well as our guides, Veronica and Bez, dealt with the incident in the best possible way. Sue was taken to hospital and will need an operation.
The bus was waiting for us at the end of the walk and drove us to the seafront at Oludeniz where some of us braved the pebbles, cold sea and fierce waves for an invigorating swim, while others relaxed with a beer or coffee, before the drive back to Fethiye.
Oludeniz
Friday 10 May 2019
Our driver dropped as off in Ovacik, where the Lycian Way starts. After a group photo in front of the elaborate gateway to the path, we set off on a cool day and it wasn't long before we warmed up and enjoyed the panoramic views of the bay of Oludeniz. We steadily climbed upwards and away from the coast to the village of Kozagac where we had a wonderful al fresco lunch of Turkish pancakes and salad, followed by cups of chai. The pancakes were cooked outside, one at a time, and it took a while before everybody could tuck in, but that didn't matter as we weren't in a hurry to leave this idyllic place. The walk continued to Kirme and then on a gentle downhill track to Faralya, at the top end of the Butterfly Valley. The Lycian Way has not disappointed and I was already looking forward to returning here tomorrow to continue the walk. We had time for coffee (or beer) and enjoy the view of valley and coast before the drive back along some hair-raising bends downhill to Oludeniz and then up again over the hill to Fethye.
Our driver dropped as off in Ovacik, where the Lycian Way starts. After a group photo in front of the elaborate gateway to the path, we set off on a cool day and it wasn't long before we warmed up and enjoyed the panoramic views of the bay of Oludeniz. We steadily climbed upwards and away from the coast to the village of Kozagac where we had a wonderful al fresco lunch of Turkish pancakes and salad, followed by cups of chai. The pancakes were cooked outside, one at a time, and it took a while before everybody could tuck in, but that didn't matter as we weren't in a hurry to leave this idyllic place. The walk continued to Kirme and then on a gentle downhill track to Faralya, at the top end of the Butterfly Valley. The Lycian Way has not disappointed and I was already looking forward to returning here tomorrow to continue the walk. We had time for coffee (or beer) and enjoy the view of valley and coast before the drive back along some hair-raising bends downhill to Oludeniz and then up again over the hill to Fethye.
Walking near Kabak
Saturday 11 May 2019
We continued walking on the Lycian Way having been dropped off in Faralya. The weather was perfect for walking today, although the big mountain in this area, Babadag, was shrouded in mist. All day we had wonderful views, first of the Butterfly valley, and then the magnificent coastline. At lunchtime we arrived in Kabak village and most of us were happy to have another al fresco pancake lunch. I could happily eat one of these every day!
After lunch a few of us walked down to the lovely beach. Because it is inaccessible for motorised transport, it was quiet and uncluttered. The sea here was calm and less cold than in Oludeniz and I enjoyed the swim a lot. Soon it was time to meet up again with the group at the restaurant and we now had a choice of walking uphill on a footpath to meet our coach or brave a ride in a minibus along the rough track. No need to guess which option I chose! The walk was quite strenuous, but the footpath, partially shaded by the pines and enhanced by a colourful display of wild flowers, was delightful. Oh, and we spotted more tortoises!
Tonight was our last evening in Fethye and we were treated to a meal in a restaurant in the lively harbour area - a welcome change from the hotel buffet! The locals - old and young - were out socialising, eating and drinking, having fasted during the day (it is Ramadan) and that contributed to a lovely atmosphere.
We continued walking on the Lycian Way having been dropped off in Faralya. The weather was perfect for walking today, although the big mountain in this area, Babadag, was shrouded in mist. All day we had wonderful views, first of the Butterfly valley, and then the magnificent coastline. At lunchtime we arrived in Kabak village and most of us were happy to have another al fresco pancake lunch. I could happily eat one of these every day!
After lunch a few of us walked down to the lovely beach. Because it is inaccessible for motorised transport, it was quiet and uncluttered. The sea here was calm and less cold than in Oludeniz and I enjoyed the swim a lot. Soon it was time to meet up again with the group at the restaurant and we now had a choice of walking uphill on a footpath to meet our coach or brave a ride in a minibus along the rough track. No need to guess which option I chose! The walk was quite strenuous, but the footpath, partially shaded by the pines and enhanced by a colourful display of wild flowers, was delightful. Oh, and we spotted more tortoises!
Tonight was our last evening in Fethye and we were treated to a meal in a restaurant in the lively harbour area - a welcome change from the hotel buffet! The locals - old and young - were out socialising, eating and drinking, having fasted during the day (it is Ramadan) and that contributed to a lovely atmosphere.
Sunday 12 May 2019
Moving to a different town and hotel didn't mean a day without a good walk and plenty to see! In fact, today turned out to be quite amazing. We started walking from Yakabak on a path through pine woods and farmland that led uphill to some remote ancient Lycian rock tombs. It was remarkable that this site attracted so few people. For us it was great of course, as we could explore and take photos without hindrance. We scrambled uphill past fig trees to get right up close to the tombs. Reaching the top we followed a level path, which afforded great views as far as the coast, and soon arrived at the ruins of Pinara. The setting of the amphitheatre in this mountainous region, the lack of modern infrastructure, and nature enhancing the ruins, made this a special place.
Eventually we had to leave Pinara and walked downhill to the village of Minara where lunch was prepared for us by a local family. We sat outside on cushions and tucked into soup, chicken, rice, salads and vegetables plus some amazingly tasty chips. Our driver met us here (but didn't eat, perhaps because of Ramadan) and then drove us to the next place of interest - the impressive Saklikent Canyon. It reminded me of the canyon in Zion National Park (USA) but the coach trip and afternoon heat made me too lethargic to explore further and I sat down in the shade with a cup of coffee and followed that with a refreshing pomegranate juice.
I felt refreshed and enjoyed the scenic drive through the countryside and then along the coast to our new base, the lovely resort of Kas.
Moving to a different town and hotel didn't mean a day without a good walk and plenty to see! In fact, today turned out to be quite amazing. We started walking from Yakabak on a path through pine woods and farmland that led uphill to some remote ancient Lycian rock tombs. It was remarkable that this site attracted so few people. For us it was great of course, as we could explore and take photos without hindrance. We scrambled uphill past fig trees to get right up close to the tombs. Reaching the top we followed a level path, which afforded great views as far as the coast, and soon arrived at the ruins of Pinara. The setting of the amphitheatre in this mountainous region, the lack of modern infrastructure, and nature enhancing the ruins, made this a special place.
Eventually we had to leave Pinara and walked downhill to the village of Minara where lunch was prepared for us by a local family. We sat outside on cushions and tucked into soup, chicken, rice, salads and vegetables plus some amazingly tasty chips. Our driver met us here (but didn't eat, perhaps because of Ramadan) and then drove us to the next place of interest - the impressive Saklikent Canyon. It reminded me of the canyon in Zion National Park (USA) but the coach trip and afternoon heat made me too lethargic to explore further and I sat down in the shade with a cup of coffee and followed that with a refreshing pomegranate juice.
I felt refreshed and enjoyed the scenic drive through the countryside and then along the coast to our new base, the lovely resort of Kas.
The Ancient City of Patara
Monday 13 May 2019
Today we followed the Lycian Way from Akbel to Patara. It was quite hot so we appreciated the shade from the olive trees and shrubs along the way. Soon we arrived at the impressive 1st century Roman aqueduct at Delikkemer. It stretched for miles - quite an amazing feat of engineering. We then continued uphill and stopped for lunch by an ugly water tank - chosen, I think because there was a little bit of shade and we could just about see the sandy beach of Patara in the distance. Soon the path took us downhill to the ancient city of Patara. After a group photo by the big entrance arch we were free to explore the large site or continue walking to the sandy beach for a swim. I decided to walk up the hill on one side of the ruined city and from there enjoyed great views towards the long sandy beach and sand dunes on one side and the ruined city on the other. I entered the amphitheatre through an arch at the top and, after climbing down the steps, I was more than ready for a cold drink at the refreshment kiosk. I still had time to walk down to the beautiful sandy beach for a swim and was reunited with the other group members in the beach bar/restaurant.
Today we followed the Lycian Way from Akbel to Patara. It was quite hot so we appreciated the shade from the olive trees and shrubs along the way. Soon we arrived at the impressive 1st century Roman aqueduct at Delikkemer. It stretched for miles - quite an amazing feat of engineering. We then continued uphill and stopped for lunch by an ugly water tank - chosen, I think because there was a little bit of shade and we could just about see the sandy beach of Patara in the distance. Soon the path took us downhill to the ancient city of Patara. After a group photo by the big entrance arch we were free to explore the large site or continue walking to the sandy beach for a swim. I decided to walk up the hill on one side of the ruined city and from there enjoyed great views towards the long sandy beach and sand dunes on one side and the ruined city on the other. I entered the amphitheatre through an arch at the top and, after climbing down the steps, I was more than ready for a cold drink at the refreshment kiosk. I still had time to walk down to the beautiful sandy beach for a swim and was reunited with the other group members in the beach bar/restaurant.
Lighthouse and Harbour at Kas
Tuesday 14 May 2019
This was our 'free day'. Time for the leaders to get some rest and catch up on admin! About 10 of us decided to go on a chartered boat trip around the 12 Turkish islands in the Kas vicinity. We had the boat to ourselves so there was plenty of room and, after all the hiking, it was nice to lounge in the covered seating area, sunbathe on the cushioned mats or admire the scenery while enjoying the gentle sea breeze. A delicious lunch (barbecued chicken or fish, salads and vegetables) was prepared by the captain and his wife. Whenever the boat anchored near one of the islands, we had the opportunity of jumping (or climbing down steps) into the water. The sea temperature varied quite a lot but I think it is getting warmer and I loved the swimming.
We returned to the harbour at Kas mid-afternoon, and, after showering etc in the hotel, I used the free time to buy postcards and wander through the narrow streets of this pretty town, soaking up the colourful and relaxed atmosphere.
This was our 'free day'. Time for the leaders to get some rest and catch up on admin! About 10 of us decided to go on a chartered boat trip around the 12 Turkish islands in the Kas vicinity. We had the boat to ourselves so there was plenty of room and, after all the hiking, it was nice to lounge in the covered seating area, sunbathe on the cushioned mats or admire the scenery while enjoying the gentle sea breeze. A delicious lunch (barbecued chicken or fish, salads and vegetables) was prepared by the captain and his wife. Whenever the boat anchored near one of the islands, we had the opportunity of jumping (or climbing down steps) into the water. The sea temperature varied quite a lot but I think it is getting warmer and I loved the swimming.
We returned to the harbour at Kas mid-afternoon, and, after showering etc in the hotel, I used the free time to buy postcards and wander through the narrow streets of this pretty town, soaking up the colourful and relaxed atmosphere.
The secret to a long life!
Wednesday 15 May 2019
After yesterday's walk-free day we were more than ready to head into the hills for a new walk. The driver dropped us off near the village of Saribelen and from there we walked along another section of the Lycian Way through forests and meadows, past olive trees and goat herds. Lunch was special - it was served by an old goat herder and his wife at their ramshackle farmstead and consisted of bowls of tomatoes, olives, goat cheese and bread. The goat herder is 80+ years old, still runs up and down the mountains and, bizarrely, collects whistles (to keep wolves away). He receives whistles from Lycian Way walkers and was lucky today as one of our walkers had one which he was happy to swap for something (can't remember what). The secret to the old man's fitness: lots of olive oil!
Our way now continued on a more or less level path through meadows and past the remains of a Roman village. Every now and again the view opened up towards the shimmering blue sea. The path then descended to the village of GokCeoren where our driver was waiting to take us back to the hotel in Kas. There was time for a refreshing swim at the hotel-owned beach a couple of miles from the hotel - Recip was happy to drive us swimmers there and back.
After yesterday's walk-free day we were more than ready to head into the hills for a new walk. The driver dropped us off near the village of Saribelen and from there we walked along another section of the Lycian Way through forests and meadows, past olive trees and goat herds. Lunch was special - it was served by an old goat herder and his wife at their ramshackle farmstead and consisted of bowls of tomatoes, olives, goat cheese and bread. The goat herder is 80+ years old, still runs up and down the mountains and, bizarrely, collects whistles (to keep wolves away). He receives whistles from Lycian Way walkers and was lucky today as one of our walkers had one which he was happy to swap for something (can't remember what). The secret to the old man's fitness: lots of olive oil!
Our way now continued on a more or less level path through meadows and past the remains of a Roman village. Every now and again the view opened up towards the shimmering blue sea. The path then descended to the village of GokCeoren where our driver was waiting to take us back to the hotel in Kas. There was time for a refreshing swim at the hotel-owned beach a couple of miles from the hotel - Recip was happy to drive us swimmers there and back.
The Sunken City - Kekova Island
Thursday 16 May 2019
Time to pack our bags again and transfer to our base for the next four days - the Buhana Hotel in Adrasan. However, first there was plenty to see and do on the way. After a brief stop and walk to a viewing terrace with stunning views of Kas we continued to the village of Ucagiz from where we took a boat trip to Kekova Island. First the boat dropped anchor at Kalekoy, where some of us climbed to the top of the hill to explore the ruined castle. Then the boat sailed alongside Kekova Island, giving us a clear view of the Roman sunken city. Lunch (barbecued chicken or fish again) was prepared on the boat which was now anchored in a sheltered bay. There was time for a swim and surely there's no better way to a good appetite than swimming! And did I enjoy lunch? You bet!
After returning to the harbour at Ucagiz we continued our journey eastwards along the coast. The big lunch and swim took it's toll now and I was half asleep when the coach stopped at another impressive ancient site - the ruined city of Myra. Here there were rock tombs, amazingly detailed stonework and a large amphitheatre to admire. However, it was very hot and I soon left the ruins to join a few others for a drink in the shade.
Our next stop was Demre, St Nicholas' birth place. Some in our group chose to enter St Nicholas' Basilica (I was put off by the airport style security) while many of us preferred the delight of an icecream (or cherry sorbet in my case) or a cold beer on this very hot afternoon.
After a scenic drive along the coast and through mountainous countryside we arrived in the beautiful Bay of Adrasan and settled into our hotel, located between forested hills and a long, sandy beach.
Time to pack our bags again and transfer to our base for the next four days - the Buhana Hotel in Adrasan. However, first there was plenty to see and do on the way. After a brief stop and walk to a viewing terrace with stunning views of Kas we continued to the village of Ucagiz from where we took a boat trip to Kekova Island. First the boat dropped anchor at Kalekoy, where some of us climbed to the top of the hill to explore the ruined castle. Then the boat sailed alongside Kekova Island, giving us a clear view of the Roman sunken city. Lunch (barbecued chicken or fish again) was prepared on the boat which was now anchored in a sheltered bay. There was time for a swim and surely there's no better way to a good appetite than swimming! And did I enjoy lunch? You bet!
After returning to the harbour at Ucagiz we continued our journey eastwards along the coast. The big lunch and swim took it's toll now and I was half asleep when the coach stopped at another impressive ancient site - the ruined city of Myra. Here there were rock tombs, amazingly detailed stonework and a large amphitheatre to admire. However, it was very hot and I soon left the ruins to join a few others for a drink in the shade.
Our next stop was Demre, St Nicholas' birth place. Some in our group chose to enter St Nicholas' Basilica (I was put off by the airport style security) while many of us preferred the delight of an icecream (or cherry sorbet in my case) or a cold beer on this very hot afternoon.
After a scenic drive along the coast and through mountainous countryside we arrived in the beautiful Bay of Adrasan and settled into our hotel, located between forested hills and a long, sandy beach.
Mount Tahtali
Friday 17 May 2019
Because of the bad weather forecast for tomorrow in the Mount Tahtali (Mount Olympus) area, we were all in agreement with our leaders that we should bring forward the walk up to the saddle at the mountain. The walk started at the village of Beycik, first on a broad track and then on challenging zigzag path through fir trees, moss covered rocks and flowers, rising steadily to the top of the saddle from where we enjoyed clear views of the snow-topped mountain amid alpine scenery. Not a bad place for a lunchtime picnic. By this time our group was reduced to eight. Because of the strenuous nature of the walk a couple of people remained in Adrasan, two more decided to pass their time in Beycik, and then, by the freshly pressed orange juice hut, Sue and Paul fell backwards as their picnic bench toppled over, unbalanced when the couple opposite got up. This was an unforgettable moment (and the only time on the entire holiday that an expletive escaped my mouth); thankfully the horror of the synchronized spectacle gave way to humour when we were assured that Sue and Paul were ok. However, Paul was already struggling a bit with the walk, so Sue convinced him that it would be best for them to return to Beycik. I think that was the right decision for them as the path continued relentlessly uphill.
Apart from the two who remained in Adrasan, the rest of our group were reunited in Beycik and after a drink or cup of chai we were driven to a restaurant, popular with local families, for a traditional dish of fish baked with tomatoes, aubergines and cheese, preceded by the best flatbread, dips and salads.
Because of the bad weather forecast for tomorrow in the Mount Tahtali (Mount Olympus) area, we were all in agreement with our leaders that we should bring forward the walk up to the saddle at the mountain. The walk started at the village of Beycik, first on a broad track and then on challenging zigzag path through fir trees, moss covered rocks and flowers, rising steadily to the top of the saddle from where we enjoyed clear views of the snow-topped mountain amid alpine scenery. Not a bad place for a lunchtime picnic. By this time our group was reduced to eight. Because of the strenuous nature of the walk a couple of people remained in Adrasan, two more decided to pass their time in Beycik, and then, by the freshly pressed orange juice hut, Sue and Paul fell backwards as their picnic bench toppled over, unbalanced when the couple opposite got up. This was an unforgettable moment (and the only time on the entire holiday that an expletive escaped my mouth); thankfully the horror of the synchronized spectacle gave way to humour when we were assured that Sue and Paul were ok. However, Paul was already struggling a bit with the walk, so Sue convinced him that it would be best for them to return to Beycik. I think that was the right decision for them as the path continued relentlessly uphill.
Apart from the two who remained in Adrasan, the rest of our group were reunited in Beycik and after a drink or cup of chai we were driven to a restaurant, popular with local families, for a traditional dish of fish baked with tomatoes, aubergines and cheese, preceded by the best flatbread, dips and salads.
Cape Gelidonia Peninsula
Saturday 18 May 2019
After a very short drive we started today's walk in Karaoz. From here the Lycian Way ascends, gently at first through pine forest, and then quite steeply on a rocky path to a high ridge overlooking the Cape Gelidonia peninsula and its two lighthouses. We stopped here for a picnic lunch. The plan was to walk back to Karaoz for the drive back to the hotel but Bez asked whether anyone would like to join him and continue walking along the Lycian Way all the way to Adrasan (adding an extra 10 kilometres or so). He asked for at least six people but in the end settled for just three and one of them was me - I hate back-tracking. I think Bez was wondering what he was letting himself in for but agreed to let me join the tough trio of Bez, John and Terry. I had to cut my lunch short and hurried after the men. It was tough at first - relentlessly uphill at speed! However, the view of the sparkling sea from the lofty position was superb. Shame really that there was no time to stop and stare! Eventually the walking became easier and we were soon skipping downhill. The reason for the hurried walking became clear - Bez wanted to reach the hotel before the bus did! We nearly made it - but, alas, found the bus already parked beside the hotel. Hot and thirsty, I immediately joined Terry at the poolside bar, drinking two cans of thirst-quenching cherryade followed by a swim to aid recovery. In case Terry or John are reading this: thank you for not allowing me to get left behind!
After a very short drive we started today's walk in Karaoz. From here the Lycian Way ascends, gently at first through pine forest, and then quite steeply on a rocky path to a high ridge overlooking the Cape Gelidonia peninsula and its two lighthouses. We stopped here for a picnic lunch. The plan was to walk back to Karaoz for the drive back to the hotel but Bez asked whether anyone would like to join him and continue walking along the Lycian Way all the way to Adrasan (adding an extra 10 kilometres or so). He asked for at least six people but in the end settled for just three and one of them was me - I hate back-tracking. I think Bez was wondering what he was letting himself in for but agreed to let me join the tough trio of Bez, John and Terry. I had to cut my lunch short and hurried after the men. It was tough at first - relentlessly uphill at speed! However, the view of the sparkling sea from the lofty position was superb. Shame really that there was no time to stop and stare! Eventually the walking became easier and we were soon skipping downhill. The reason for the hurried walking became clear - Bez wanted to reach the hotel before the bus did! We nearly made it - but, alas, found the bus already parked beside the hotel. Hot and thirsty, I immediately joined Terry at the poolside bar, drinking two cans of thirst-quenching cherryade followed by a swim to aid recovery. In case Terry or John are reading this: thank you for not allowing me to get left behind!
The Eternal Flames of Chimaera
Sunday 19 May 2019
Time flies and tomorrow we will leave Adrasan and head for Antalya but today we enjoyed an amazing day, packed full of great walking, places of interest, wonderful scenery and a very good lunch! The walk started in the hills at Ulupinar and followed a delightful path alongside a gorge. We then walked steeply downhill and soon arrived at the astonishing natural phenomenon of the eternal flames of Chimaera. Even the heaviest downpours cannot extinguish the flames. They spring up in crevices in the rocks, where methane gas escapes.
Our driver was waiting for us at the entrance of the site (we walked down from the top) and drove us to Cirali where we stopped for lunch. I chose several dishes from the buffet, e.g. stuffed aubergine, chickpeas and chicken, as well as a selection of olives and salads. Wonderful! We then walked past a busy market and the short distance to the long white sandy beach. We had a choice - go for a swim or visit the ancient city of Olympos City. It was hot and I thought I'd go for a swim but there weren't any changing facilities and no shade so I wandered towards the ancient site, located in a beautiful setting between between green hills, white beach and deep blue sea. However, the hot sun and big lunch seemed to have depleted my energy levels and I decided what I really wanted was a coffee and not ruins! I wandered back to the restaurant and joined other lazy walkers.
Immediately after arriving back at the hotel, I walked down to the beach and enjoyed a long and wonderful swim in the calm sea; the setting sun accentuated the beautiful scenery around the bay - it was quite devine!
Time flies and tomorrow we will leave Adrasan and head for Antalya but today we enjoyed an amazing day, packed full of great walking, places of interest, wonderful scenery and a very good lunch! The walk started in the hills at Ulupinar and followed a delightful path alongside a gorge. We then walked steeply downhill and soon arrived at the astonishing natural phenomenon of the eternal flames of Chimaera. Even the heaviest downpours cannot extinguish the flames. They spring up in crevices in the rocks, where methane gas escapes.
Our driver was waiting for us at the entrance of the site (we walked down from the top) and drove us to Cirali where we stopped for lunch. I chose several dishes from the buffet, e.g. stuffed aubergine, chickpeas and chicken, as well as a selection of olives and salads. Wonderful! We then walked past a busy market and the short distance to the long white sandy beach. We had a choice - go for a swim or visit the ancient city of Olympos City. It was hot and I thought I'd go for a swim but there weren't any changing facilities and no shade so I wandered towards the ancient site, located in a beautiful setting between between green hills, white beach and deep blue sea. However, the hot sun and big lunch seemed to have depleted my energy levels and I decided what I really wanted was a coffee and not ruins! I wandered back to the restaurant and joined other lazy walkers.
Immediately after arriving back at the hotel, I walked down to the beach and enjoyed a long and wonderful swim in the calm sea; the setting sun accentuated the beautiful scenery around the bay - it was quite devine!
The beach at Phaselis with Mount Tahtali (Olympos)
Monday 20 May 2019
We left Adrasan Bay this morning and after a scenic drive we started our last walk in the pine forests above the historic site of Phaselis. It had rained here during the night, judging by the puddles on the broad and uninspiring track, however, we soon followed a narrow winding path above the beautiful bay with some amazing views. After walking downhill to the ancient site of Phaselis, our time was our own and we had plenty of time to not only explore the site, which included impressive remains of the enormous aqueduct that delivered fresh water to the city, a well-preserved Roman High Street and Hadrian's Gate but also another opportunity for a swim. The setting of the site by the sea on one side of a promontory with a sandy beach in a sheltered bay on the other side against the backdrop of Mount Olympos, together with easy access made this a tourist hotspot. I wandered through the ruins for a while and then made my way across to the beach. There were changing rooms and showers here but I found the beach too busy, too shallow and too warm! It appeared that most of the people swimming here arrived from one of the many tourist boats anchored nearby.
After another scenic drive and a refreshment stop at a restaurant in the elegant city of Kemer we continued the drive to Antalya. We had some free time and a couple of our people asked to be dropped off near the brilliant museum (as impressive as the British Museum we were told) but I used the time to wander through Kaleici (the old town, where our hotel was) and around the harbour area. Tomorrow we will head to the airport for the flight home, after two weeks of great walking and swimming, good company and many culinary delights.
We left Adrasan Bay this morning and after a scenic drive we started our last walk in the pine forests above the historic site of Phaselis. It had rained here during the night, judging by the puddles on the broad and uninspiring track, however, we soon followed a narrow winding path above the beautiful bay with some amazing views. After walking downhill to the ancient site of Phaselis, our time was our own and we had plenty of time to not only explore the site, which included impressive remains of the enormous aqueduct that delivered fresh water to the city, a well-preserved Roman High Street and Hadrian's Gate but also another opportunity for a swim. The setting of the site by the sea on one side of a promontory with a sandy beach in a sheltered bay on the other side against the backdrop of Mount Olympos, together with easy access made this a tourist hotspot. I wandered through the ruins for a while and then made my way across to the beach. There were changing rooms and showers here but I found the beach too busy, too shallow and too warm! It appeared that most of the people swimming here arrived from one of the many tourist boats anchored nearby.
After another scenic drive and a refreshment stop at a restaurant in the elegant city of Kemer we continued the drive to Antalya. We had some free time and a couple of our people asked to be dropped off near the brilliant museum (as impressive as the British Museum we were told) but I used the time to wander through Kaleici (the old town, where our hotel was) and around the harbour area. Tomorrow we will head to the airport for the flight home, after two weeks of great walking and swimming, good company and many culinary delights.
Guidebook: The Lycian Way (Kate Clow)
Beaches
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Flora
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