Discovering Walking Trails in the Seychelles
In January 2023 I was very fortunate to be able to join my sister for a three week holiday on the beautiful islands of the Seychelles. As we both like discovering the world on foot, we naturally included several hikes of different lengths. The climate was often hot and humid so swimming and snorkeling became the preferred option but below are short write-ups and images from some of the walks we did enjoy.
On the way to Anse Major
10 January 2023 - Coastal trail to Anse Major (Mahe)
For the first few days of the trip we were based in Beau Vallon on the main island, Mahe. Today we hopped on the bus for the short drive north to Bel Ombre from where we walked along the coastal trail to the picturesque Anse Major beach. We enjoyed some amazing views along the trail but were ready for a refreshing swim in the warm sea when we reached the beach. Suitably refreshed and by now ready for a good lunch, we continued walking along the coast, following the sign pointing in the direction of a beach bar and restaurant. We eventually found the secluded rustic bar in a picturesque setting among the palm trees, just as they started preparing lunch. After ordering the barbecued fish we had time for another swim before tucking into the traditional kreol spiced fish, served with rice, lentils and mango salad. It was delicious although we had to share it with some annoying flies. We were now energised for the walk back along the coast to Bel Ombre and the bus ride home. There was still time for a beautiful swim at our wonderful Beau Vallon home beach.
For the first few days of the trip we were based in Beau Vallon on the main island, Mahe. Today we hopped on the bus for the short drive north to Bel Ombre from where we walked along the coastal trail to the picturesque Anse Major beach. We enjoyed some amazing views along the trail but were ready for a refreshing swim in the warm sea when we reached the beach. Suitably refreshed and by now ready for a good lunch, we continued walking along the coast, following the sign pointing in the direction of a beach bar and restaurant. We eventually found the secluded rustic bar in a picturesque setting among the palm trees, just as they started preparing lunch. After ordering the barbecued fish we had time for another swim before tucking into the traditional kreol spiced fish, served with rice, lentils and mango salad. It was delicious although we had to share it with some annoying flies. We were now energised for the walk back along the coast to Bel Ombre and the bus ride home. There was still time for a beautiful swim at our wonderful Beau Vallon home beach.
Wildlife Spotting
13 January 2023 - Anse Lazio to Mont Plaisir (Praslin)
After a few days on the largest island, Mahe, we have now settled into our modest villa on a hillside with sea view and resident giant tortoises on Praslin island. The weather seems to a bit more rainy here, but, after enduring a soaking yesterday while grocery shopping, the sun was shining today so we took the rickety old bus for the short ride to Anse Boudin and from there we walked to the pictureque Anse Lazio. We immediately went for a swim - the beach is a bit rocky in places so Marlies tried snorkelling while I enjoyed a swim once I reached the deep water. The scenery all around the cove was simply stunning but after the refreshing dip we were ready for a hike, which took us first along the coast and then uphill to Mont Plaisir. We enjoyed the scenery and lush vegetation as well as some wonderful views before continuing along the road to reach a bus stop. From here the bus took us down to the coast on the other side of the island and on to the largest resort, Grand Anse, where we stopped for an overdue lunch. That was enough walking for the day, especially as the rain started falling again. We boarded the bus for the ride 'home' and an evening watching the little red birds and a fruit bat gorging itself on the mango tree, while eating our pasta dinner, followed by some delicious Swiss chocolates .
After a few days on the largest island, Mahe, we have now settled into our modest villa on a hillside with sea view and resident giant tortoises on Praslin island. The weather seems to a bit more rainy here, but, after enduring a soaking yesterday while grocery shopping, the sun was shining today so we took the rickety old bus for the short ride to Anse Boudin and from there we walked to the pictureque Anse Lazio. We immediately went for a swim - the beach is a bit rocky in places so Marlies tried snorkelling while I enjoyed a swim once I reached the deep water. The scenery all around the cove was simply stunning but after the refreshing dip we were ready for a hike, which took us first along the coast and then uphill to Mont Plaisir. We enjoyed the scenery and lush vegetation as well as some wonderful views before continuing along the road to reach a bus stop. From here the bus took us down to the coast on the other side of the island and on to the largest resort, Grand Anse, where we stopped for an overdue lunch. That was enough walking for the day, especially as the rain started falling again. We boarded the bus for the ride 'home' and an evening watching the little red birds and a fruit bat gorging itself on the mango tree, while eating our pasta dinner, followed by some delicious Swiss chocolates .
In the Jungle
14 January 2023 - Vallee de Mai National Park (Praslin)
Today we took the bus to a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Vallee de Mai National Park. After paying the hefty entrance fee, we were talked into parting with more cash and joined a small group of tourists for a guided walk along the jungle trails. Our local guide was very knowledgeable (and probably worth the expense) and we learnt a lot about the most celebrated of palms, the endemic Coco de Mer. It appears to be a must to be photographed with the nut because it resembles a certain part of the female anatomy! Naturally, it is also the butt of jokes. Luckily we didn't understand what the Russian tourists found so funny. Apart from the Coco de Mer there are other endemic species that thrive here, including the Seychelles black parrot. We didn't see it but we certainly heard it. We didn't spot any snakes either but did walk past an enormous spider. There are many species of snakes, spiders and mammals on the islands of the Seychelles but, thankfully (especially for hikers), none of them are poisonous or dangerous. There are some very annoying insects though and, despite applying repellent, I did end up with a few bites.
Today we took the bus to a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Vallee de Mai National Park. After paying the hefty entrance fee, we were talked into parting with more cash and joined a small group of tourists for a guided walk along the jungle trails. Our local guide was very knowledgeable (and probably worth the expense) and we learnt a lot about the most celebrated of palms, the endemic Coco de Mer. It appears to be a must to be photographed with the nut because it resembles a certain part of the female anatomy! Naturally, it is also the butt of jokes. Luckily we didn't understand what the Russian tourists found so funny. Apart from the Coco de Mer there are other endemic species that thrive here, including the Seychelles black parrot. We didn't see it but we certainly heard it. We didn't spot any snakes either but did walk past an enormous spider. There are many species of snakes, spiders and mammals on the islands of the Seychelles but, thankfully (especially for hikers), none of them are poisonous or dangerous. There are some very annoying insects though and, despite applying repellent, I did end up with a few bites.
Hiking Trail on Curieuse Island
15 January 2023 - Curieuse Island
What an exciting day! First we sped across the sea (fairly choppy) in a small boat towards Curieuse Island. The plan was to snorkel first by the idyllic tiny island of St Pierre but that was deemed too dangerous by the two young lads piloting us. I guess they based that assessment after watching us cling to the side of the boat! Approaching Curieuse Island the sea was calm enough to dive in. After donning flippers and snorkel gear I had no choice but to put fear aside and experience my first snorkelling adventure. Once I braved breathing and opening my eyes under water I soon got to enjoy it. There really were all sorts of colourful fish in this amazing underwater world. Emerging from the water, and after the struggle to get back on the boat, we soon arrived on Curieuse. This island is a big tourist draw not just because of its beautiful beaches and scenery but also because of the large number of giant tortoises roaming about. Photos taken, it was time to walk on a good trail through palm and mangrove forests and along the longest boardwalk in the Seychelles, to reach a secluded beach where we had time for a lovely swim before enjoying the slightly disappointing barbecue lunch. On the walk we saw further tortoises, lots of crabs and some lovely birds.
What an exciting day! First we sped across the sea (fairly choppy) in a small boat towards Curieuse Island. The plan was to snorkel first by the idyllic tiny island of St Pierre but that was deemed too dangerous by the two young lads piloting us. I guess they based that assessment after watching us cling to the side of the boat! Approaching Curieuse Island the sea was calm enough to dive in. After donning flippers and snorkel gear I had no choice but to put fear aside and experience my first snorkelling adventure. Once I braved breathing and opening my eyes under water I soon got to enjoy it. There really were all sorts of colourful fish in this amazing underwater world. Emerging from the water, and after the struggle to get back on the boat, we soon arrived on Curieuse. This island is a big tourist draw not just because of its beautiful beaches and scenery but also because of the large number of giant tortoises roaming about. Photos taken, it was time to walk on a good trail through palm and mangrove forests and along the longest boardwalk in the Seychelles, to reach a secluded beach where we had time for a lovely swim before enjoying the slightly disappointing barbecue lunch. On the walk we saw further tortoises, lots of crabs and some lovely birds.
On the way down from Glacis Noir
16 January 2023 - Vallee du Mai (Praslin)
We decided to return to Vallee du Mai but this time we didn't enter the nature reserve. Instead we explored the jungle on the other side of the road. Almost opposite the visitors centre, the Glacis Noir nature trail winds its way uphill to the the top of the mountain (the Glacis Noir). The path is well maintained and easily do-able and most of it is shaded by lush vegetation, including the magnificent Coco de Mer palms. At the top of the mountain there is a fire tower, and while climbing up the vertical metal ladders is not for the fainthearted, the views towards St Anne's Bay and across the sea to La Digue, made the climb worthwhile. Unfortunately the clouds returned and obscured the visibility a bit. We were surprised to see a couple of walkers join us at the top. They were the only people we saw on the trek. Having had our fill of the views, we retraced our steps downhill, trying to spot the Seychelles Bronze Gecko but it would have been a miracle to see one as they are so well camouflaged as they lie in wait for prey on the giant palm leaves. My sister, however, spotted the Seychelles Black Parrot. They're not easy to see but we heard its recognisable song (more of a crow-type shriek) long before it made an appearance. This was a really interesting trek and the reward of a nice view at the top made it all very worthwhile.
We decided to return to Vallee du Mai but this time we didn't enter the nature reserve. Instead we explored the jungle on the other side of the road. Almost opposite the visitors centre, the Glacis Noir nature trail winds its way uphill to the the top of the mountain (the Glacis Noir). The path is well maintained and easily do-able and most of it is shaded by lush vegetation, including the magnificent Coco de Mer palms. At the top of the mountain there is a fire tower, and while climbing up the vertical metal ladders is not for the fainthearted, the views towards St Anne's Bay and across the sea to La Digue, made the climb worthwhile. Unfortunately the clouds returned and obscured the visibility a bit. We were surprised to see a couple of walkers join us at the top. They were the only people we saw on the trek. Having had our fill of the views, we retraced our steps downhill, trying to spot the Seychelles Bronze Gecko but it would have been a miracle to see one as they are so well camouflaged as they lie in wait for prey on the giant palm leaves. My sister, however, spotted the Seychelles Black Parrot. They're not easy to see but we heard its recognisable song (more of a crow-type shriek) long before it made an appearance. This was a really interesting trek and the reward of a nice view at the top made it all very worthwhile.
Hungry Tortoise at the Museum
18 January 2023 - Salezie Trail (Praslin)
We spent the morning exploring the museum in Anse Volbert, which included feeding giant Aldabra tortoises and fruit bats and, best of all, being treated to a musical performance by our guide who sang a folksong while playing a traditional musical instrument. After that interesting cultural experience, followed by a beautiful swim and tasty fish curry lunch, we decided to give the Salezie trail a go. This ancient trail starts not far from Anse Volbert village and crosses the island to finish at Grand Anse. We found the start easily, thanks to Marlise's brilliant 'my map' app, and were soon walking steeply uphill. Unfortunately it started to rain, but, as we sheltered under a mango tree, debating whether to turn back or continue, the rain eased and we continued walking. The sun reappeared and we followed the trail, which was not easy, sign posting was lacking and the trail was often overgrown. However, thanks to the app we didn't get lost and crossed over the central hills to the other side of the island. When we reached the footpath junction where the Salezie and Pasquiere trails cross, we had to decide whether to continue on the Salezie trail to Grand Anse, or, alternatively, follow the Pasquiere trail all the way back to Anse Possession and walk 'home' to our villa. We felt that we'd walked far enough on an enjoyable but tricky trail, and ending the walk on the other side of the island seemed the better option. Enjoying a drink, while waiting for the bus, we reflected on an adventurous and satisfying coast to coast walk.
We spent the morning exploring the museum in Anse Volbert, which included feeding giant Aldabra tortoises and fruit bats and, best of all, being treated to a musical performance by our guide who sang a folksong while playing a traditional musical instrument. After that interesting cultural experience, followed by a beautiful swim and tasty fish curry lunch, we decided to give the Salezie trail a go. This ancient trail starts not far from Anse Volbert village and crosses the island to finish at Grand Anse. We found the start easily, thanks to Marlise's brilliant 'my map' app, and were soon walking steeply uphill. Unfortunately it started to rain, but, as we sheltered under a mango tree, debating whether to turn back or continue, the rain eased and we continued walking. The sun reappeared and we followed the trail, which was not easy, sign posting was lacking and the trail was often overgrown. However, thanks to the app we didn't get lost and crossed over the central hills to the other side of the island. When we reached the footpath junction where the Salezie and Pasquiere trails cross, we had to decide whether to continue on the Salezie trail to Grand Anse, or, alternatively, follow the Pasquiere trail all the way back to Anse Possession and walk 'home' to our villa. We felt that we'd walked far enough on an enjoyable but tricky trail, and ending the walk on the other side of the island seemed the better option. Enjoying a drink, while waiting for the bus, we reflected on an adventurous and satisfying coast to coast walk.
La Digue Sunset
20 - 25 January 2023 - La Digue
We are now staying in a hotel in La Digue for a week. Our beach front accommodation is perfect for snorkelling and even better for sipping a pre-dinner gin and tonic while admiring the beautiful sunsets.
While we spent most of our time here exploring the island on hire bicycles, snorkelling and swimming at some amazingly beautiful beaches, we did make time for a few adventurous hikes.
We are now staying in a hotel in La Digue for a week. Our beach front accommodation is perfect for snorkelling and even better for sipping a pre-dinner gin and tonic while admiring the beautiful sunsets.
While we spent most of our time here exploring the island on hire bicycles, snorkelling and swimming at some amazingly beautiful beaches, we did make time for a few adventurous hikes.
The Bar at Anse Caiman
One day we cycled along the stunning coastal road around the northern tip and down the other side of the small island right to where the road ended. From here we planned to walk along a trail to Anse Caiman. We parked our bikes and set off on the very rocky trail. We bravely clambered over and around giant stones before eventually abondoning the trail. We climbed down to the coast and waded around and over the rocks. Occasionally there was a bit of sand to walk on and at other times we had to wade in the water. That brought its rewards as we spotted some pretty fish and not so pretty sea cucumbers. As we approached Anse Caiman and its welcoming bar, the water got too deep and rough to continue so we had to climb up to the big rocks again. Our struggle was noticed by the barman - he came to our rescue, pulling us up. After refreshing ourselves with a much needed fruity cocktail we had to leave this beautiful spot before the tide would make wading in the sea problematic. The barman showed us the best way down to the beach and we walked back treading carefully among the stones and corals. This has been a short but very tricky hike and we were glad and quite relieved when we were reunited with our bicycles.
Time for a swim at Grand Anse
With a slightly cooler temperature and even a few clouds, we took the opportunity to hike to the highest point of the island, the Nid D'Aigles at 555 metres above sea level. We cycled along the road to Belle Vue but had to abandon our bikes by the roadside when the climb became too steep to even push the bike. From the Belle Vue Café we followed the circular trail to the top. The footpath climbed steeply uphill and, although well maintained, there were a couple of tricky bits that involved climbing up some huge boulders. I wished my arms were stronger and more able to pull myself up, and I admit to having experienced a couple of scary moments. But we made it to the top and, after admiring the views, walked back down on an easier path. Thankfully, the bar at Belle Vue was open - we were the only customers - and, after a refreshing drink we walked and cycled (testing our brakes all the way down) to Grand Anse for a swim before cycling back over the hill and down to our sea level hotel room.
to be continued....