The Wayfarer's Walk
Ox Drove Trail near Ashmansworth
|
Sheep grazing on the Downs (Beacon Hill in Background)
|
Highclere to Kingsclere
Grotto Lodge, Highclere
30 July 2016
I started the Wayfarers Walk exactly six months ago and when contemplating the logistics of getting to and from the trail I knew that this walk would cause me a headache or two! I hadn’t given up on it completely though and this weekend provided perfect weather (not as hot as it had been recently) and a free Saturday to do with as I pleased.
So, with some pre-walk nerves (which I’d never suffered from on the Thames, K&A canal or London walks) I set off on my bike to catch the Newbury train in Theale. There was just the one morning bus from Newbury to Highclere and missing it would have meant the end of this particular walk (at least for today)! Rural buses are going to play a big part on this trail. Overnight stops (B&B, wild camping?) or two car trips may also have to be considered. As for today, my planning worked and the bus driver dropped me off at ‘The Red House’ stop in Highclere. This was right at the end of the village. When I arrived here in January at dusk I must have found a different stop as I didn’t see the pub. This was actually a better place to start walking as I immediately spotted the ‘Brenda Parker Way’ signpost. This is the trail that would take me up to the Wayfarers Walk. Having had no problem following it when I returned from the previous section, I still don’t understand how I managed to get hopelessly lost! It was two hours later that I finally found myself back on the Wayfarers Walk having wandered along farm tracks and hedged paths in no-man’s-land. Eventually there was a track leading up a steep wooded hill and I was pretty confident that I would find the Wayfarer’s Walk at the top. After scrambling up, disturbing some deer on the way, I reached a quiet road and followed that, knowing that it would lead to a village eventually. The village was Ashmansworth. A look at my map told me that I was not far off the trail but on the south side of it which meant that I must have crossed Wayfarers at some point! It’s all very puzzling and has dented my confidence in my map reading skills somewhat.
Anyway, finally I was back on track, slightly concerned to see two young motorcyclists follow the trail where I was joining it. Luckily that was the last I saw of them (or anyone else apart from one cyclist) for a few miles. I was now walking along a pleasant, narrow trail bordered by trees, shrubs, brambles and stingy nettles. Best not to wear shorts on these rural paths. Soon I arrived at the picturesque Grotto Lodge (part of the Highclere Estate). From here a sign-posted summer walk (Easter to August Bank Holiday) meanders through Highclere parkland to emerge at Highclere Street. Tempting though that path was I continued on the Wayfarer’s Walk through Grotto Copse where I found a peaceful spot for a lunch break. Emerging from the woods the view opened out all round. Looking south from Rabbit Warren I could make out the South Downs hills in the distance and on the other side I soon had good views of Beacon Hill, one of the highest points on the Hampshire Downs. The sun now made an appearance and I absolutely adored walking down this chalk hill. Sheep were grazing on one side and on the other side butterflies and crickets were fluttering and chirping respectively as the profusion of chalk land flowers provided a fantastic habitat for them and a feast for my eyes.
I started the Wayfarers Walk exactly six months ago and when contemplating the logistics of getting to and from the trail I knew that this walk would cause me a headache or two! I hadn’t given up on it completely though and this weekend provided perfect weather (not as hot as it had been recently) and a free Saturday to do with as I pleased.
So, with some pre-walk nerves (which I’d never suffered from on the Thames, K&A canal or London walks) I set off on my bike to catch the Newbury train in Theale. There was just the one morning bus from Newbury to Highclere and missing it would have meant the end of this particular walk (at least for today)! Rural buses are going to play a big part on this trail. Overnight stops (B&B, wild camping?) or two car trips may also have to be considered. As for today, my planning worked and the bus driver dropped me off at ‘The Red House’ stop in Highclere. This was right at the end of the village. When I arrived here in January at dusk I must have found a different stop as I didn’t see the pub. This was actually a better place to start walking as I immediately spotted the ‘Brenda Parker Way’ signpost. This is the trail that would take me up to the Wayfarers Walk. Having had no problem following it when I returned from the previous section, I still don’t understand how I managed to get hopelessly lost! It was two hours later that I finally found myself back on the Wayfarers Walk having wandered along farm tracks and hedged paths in no-man’s-land. Eventually there was a track leading up a steep wooded hill and I was pretty confident that I would find the Wayfarer’s Walk at the top. After scrambling up, disturbing some deer on the way, I reached a quiet road and followed that, knowing that it would lead to a village eventually. The village was Ashmansworth. A look at my map told me that I was not far off the trail but on the south side of it which meant that I must have crossed Wayfarers at some point! It’s all very puzzling and has dented my confidence in my map reading skills somewhat.
Anyway, finally I was back on track, slightly concerned to see two young motorcyclists follow the trail where I was joining it. Luckily that was the last I saw of them (or anyone else apart from one cyclist) for a few miles. I was now walking along a pleasant, narrow trail bordered by trees, shrubs, brambles and stingy nettles. Best not to wear shorts on these rural paths. Soon I arrived at the picturesque Grotto Lodge (part of the Highclere Estate). From here a sign-posted summer walk (Easter to August Bank Holiday) meanders through Highclere parkland to emerge at Highclere Street. Tempting though that path was I continued on the Wayfarer’s Walk through Grotto Copse where I found a peaceful spot for a lunch break. Emerging from the woods the view opened out all round. Looking south from Rabbit Warren I could make out the South Downs hills in the distance and on the other side I soon had good views of Beacon Hill, one of the highest points on the Hampshire Downs. The sun now made an appearance and I absolutely adored walking down this chalk hill. Sheep were grazing on one side and on the other side butterflies and crickets were fluttering and chirping respectively as the profusion of chalk land flowers provided a fantastic habitat for them and a feast for my eyes.
Summer Bouquet on the Downs
As I walked downhill along the path towards the busy A34 Newbury bypass there was more delightful walking as the path led through a lovely woodland copse. Then, just before the road I paused by a plaque remembering Geoffrey de Havilland’s first flight on his homemade plane here in 1910.
The Wayfarer’s Walk now crosses the A34, but sensibly a detour has been signposted as crossing here would be suicidal. The detour leads for about half a mile between road and a crackling wheat field before reaching a track and underpass. On the other side the path was completely different – lush and slightly overgrown. I was glad of the shade (and privacy for an impromptu toilet stop).
The walk now continued uphill to Ladle Hill with more fantastic panoramic views. It then skirted Sydmonton Court Estate before rising uphill again to follow the ridge of Watership Down. I had to pause here to apply some sun lotion as the sun finally got the upper hand over the clouds that had kept things pleasantly cool. I was now in Horse Racing Country with gallops all along the track. For the first time today I saw and passed quite a few other walkers. The heat got to me a little bit now and I was pleased when I reached the car park by the Kingsclere Road. I chose to follow footpaths into Kingsclere rather than the road, which added a bit of distance but I’m not keen on walking along roads. After plodding along an endless wheat field I was rewarded with a particularly pleasant walk downhill through soft turf and lovely wildflowers. I was skilfully sidestepping rabbit holes as I sped up hoping to catch the 5.05 bus. Unfortunately, I took the wrong track into Kingsclere ending up in enclosed riding stables. Luckily a stable lad was there to show me a way out of the maze. As I arrived by St Mary’s Church I saw the bus on the other side of the road. That turned out to be the bus to Basingstoke, however, and as the driver pointed out the Newbury bus arriving on the other side of the road it pulled away – either not seeing me or ignoring my frantic waving! But never mind, there was another bus in an hour’s time and I used the time constructively, lying in the churchyard, snoozing.
My highlights:
Wildlife:
Useful information
Transport:
The Wayfarer’s Walk now crosses the A34, but sensibly a detour has been signposted as crossing here would be suicidal. The detour leads for about half a mile between road and a crackling wheat field before reaching a track and underpass. On the other side the path was completely different – lush and slightly overgrown. I was glad of the shade (and privacy for an impromptu toilet stop).
The walk now continued uphill to Ladle Hill with more fantastic panoramic views. It then skirted Sydmonton Court Estate before rising uphill again to follow the ridge of Watership Down. I had to pause here to apply some sun lotion as the sun finally got the upper hand over the clouds that had kept things pleasantly cool. I was now in Horse Racing Country with gallops all along the track. For the first time today I saw and passed quite a few other walkers. The heat got to me a little bit now and I was pleased when I reached the car park by the Kingsclere Road. I chose to follow footpaths into Kingsclere rather than the road, which added a bit of distance but I’m not keen on walking along roads. After plodding along an endless wheat field I was rewarded with a particularly pleasant walk downhill through soft turf and lovely wildflowers. I was skilfully sidestepping rabbit holes as I sped up hoping to catch the 5.05 bus. Unfortunately, I took the wrong track into Kingsclere ending up in enclosed riding stables. Luckily a stable lad was there to show me a way out of the maze. As I arrived by St Mary’s Church I saw the bus on the other side of the road. That turned out to be the bus to Basingstoke, however, and as the driver pointed out the Newbury bus arriving on the other side of the road it pulled away – either not seeing me or ignoring my frantic waving! But never mind, there was another bus in an hour’s time and I used the time constructively, lying in the churchyard, snoozing.
My highlights:
- Panoramic views across the downs
- Chalk hill flora
- Lovely shady woodlands
Wildlife:
- Red kites and songbirds
- Butterflies and crickets
- Deer, rabbits and sheep
- Young pheasants
Useful information
Transport:
- Train Reading (Theale) to Newbury; Bus from Newbury to Highclere (Stagecoach No 7)
- Return: Bus from Kingsclere to Newbury (Link Bus Basingstoke-Newbury); train Newbury to Theale (Reading)
- Newbury, Highclere, Kingsclere; nothing on trail
- Newbury Station and Kennet Centre; Kingsclere
Walk through beautiful woodland shortly before A34 crossing
|
Gallops on Watership Down
|
Continue to Section 3: Kingsclere to Oakley
Click here for more photos from this walk
Click here for more photos from this walk