Day 1 - Coate Water
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Day 2 - Barbury Castle
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Day 3 - On way to West Kennett Long Barrow
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The Great Stones Way
The Great Stones Way is a long-distance path, opened in 2014, linking the prehistoric sites of Barbury Castle and Old Sarum. To link with transport I started the walk in Swindon and finished five days later in Salisbury. The distance of the official route is only 36 1/2 miles but that doesn't include the Avebury and Stonehenge loops. Accommodation options have to be considered when planning the walk as these are limited in the central section. The area is, however, served quite well by buses, which means that the route could be completed as a series of day walks.
Guidebook: The Great Stones Way, a Cicerone Guide by Steve Davison
Maps: Ordnance Survey Explorer Maps 169 Cirencester & Swindon, 157 Marlborough & Savernake Forest, 130 Salisbury & Stonehenge
Guidebook: The Great Stones Way, a Cicerone Guide by Steve Davison
Maps: Ordnance Survey Explorer Maps 169 Cirencester & Swindon, 157 Marlborough & Savernake Forest, 130 Salisbury & Stonehenge
Chiseldon House Hotel
Swindon to Chiseldon - 21 September 2020
This first section was all about easing myself into the walking week and getting used to carrying a backpack. The pack was heavier than expected - probably because I had to pack waterproofs and an extra jumper in anticipation of the sudden drop in temperature, wind and rain, forecast for later in the week.
So I set out from Swindon train station in hot weather. I hadn't realised that the old town was on a hill! It was quite hard going and I almost wished I'd taken the bus to Coate Water. However, I had plenty of time and soon enjoyed the walk as I wandered along the lake in Lawn park and continued on the cycle path to Coate Water Country Park. Here there was a cafe and toilets. I was tempted to join the socially distanced icecream queue but thought it better to ease my load by drinking the tea I prepared at home. After a short rest, watching the seagulls, swans and ducks on the lake, I continued walking soutwards, soon crossing the M4 on a monstrosity of a concrete footbridge. The path then went uphill, past grazing sheep and through woodland and meadows to Chisledon. I stayed at the lovely Chiseldon House Hotel. After dining on the terrace (Wiltshire sausages and mash) while watching a local line dance group practising their moves I retired to my luxuriously large room.
This first section was all about easing myself into the walking week and getting used to carrying a backpack. The pack was heavier than expected - probably because I had to pack waterproofs and an extra jumper in anticipation of the sudden drop in temperature, wind and rain, forecast for later in the week.
So I set out from Swindon train station in hot weather. I hadn't realised that the old town was on a hill! It was quite hard going and I almost wished I'd taken the bus to Coate Water. However, I had plenty of time and soon enjoyed the walk as I wandered along the lake in Lawn park and continued on the cycle path to Coate Water Country Park. Here there was a cafe and toilets. I was tempted to join the socially distanced icecream queue but thought it better to ease my load by drinking the tea I prepared at home. After a short rest, watching the seagulls, swans and ducks on the lake, I continued walking soutwards, soon crossing the M4 on a monstrosity of a concrete footbridge. The path then went uphill, past grazing sheep and through woodland and meadows to Chisledon. I stayed at the lovely Chiseldon House Hotel. After dining on the terrace (Wiltshire sausages and mash) while watching a local line dance group practising their moves I retired to my luxuriously large room.
On the Ridgeway
Chiseldon to Avebury - 22 September 2020
Nothing like a good night's sleep and nutritious breakfast to put a spring in the step and make the world a beautiful place! I left the hotel in excellent spirit, ready to embrace the journey ahead. At first, the walk on an old railway path (also a national cycle route) headed south, parallel to the A346, before turning westward, slowly ascending towards Burderop Down and Barbury Castle. It was great to be on top of the Downs, views opened up all round, though the haze reduced visibility somewhat. After a tour around the impressive Barbury Castle hill fort, I stopped for a drinks and nibbles break in a sheltered spot. From here, the Great Stones Way follows the Ridgeway all the way to Overton Hill. I walked briskly towards Avebury, detouring just a little to check out the Hackpen Hill White Horse. Trouble is, to see the horse in its full glory I would have needed to walk a long way down (and then up again ) so I made do with the short walk to a couple of areas of white chalk, which I guess were part of the horse - no idea which parts! This White Horse is one of eight dotted around Wiltshire and maybe one day I'll walk along the Whitehorse Trail to see them all.
The clouds now gathered but the rain held off. I left The Ridgeway and followed the Wessex Ridgeway into Avebury. My B&B was located in Avebury Trusloe so I had a bit more walking to do. I considered stopping for dinner at the Red Lion before continuing to Trusloe but decided to book a table for an hour later so I could first freshen up and deposit the backpack. At the Red Lion I chose the Hunter's Chicken - delicious! It came with fries, salad and garlic bread and I had absolutely no problem leaving a clean plate! The walk back to the B&B was in complete darkness - with only my mobile phone light helping me navigate the footpath.
Nothing like a good night's sleep and nutritious breakfast to put a spring in the step and make the world a beautiful place! I left the hotel in excellent spirit, ready to embrace the journey ahead. At first, the walk on an old railway path (also a national cycle route) headed south, parallel to the A346, before turning westward, slowly ascending towards Burderop Down and Barbury Castle. It was great to be on top of the Downs, views opened up all round, though the haze reduced visibility somewhat. After a tour around the impressive Barbury Castle hill fort, I stopped for a drinks and nibbles break in a sheltered spot. From here, the Great Stones Way follows the Ridgeway all the way to Overton Hill. I walked briskly towards Avebury, detouring just a little to check out the Hackpen Hill White Horse. Trouble is, to see the horse in its full glory I would have needed to walk a long way down (and then up again ) so I made do with the short walk to a couple of areas of white chalk, which I guess were part of the horse - no idea which parts! This White Horse is one of eight dotted around Wiltshire and maybe one day I'll walk along the Whitehorse Trail to see them all.
The clouds now gathered but the rain held off. I left The Ridgeway and followed the Wessex Ridgeway into Avebury. My B&B was located in Avebury Trusloe so I had a bit more walking to do. I considered stopping for dinner at the Red Lion before continuing to Trusloe but decided to book a table for an hour later so I could first freshen up and deposit the backpack. At the Red Lion I chose the Hunter's Chicken - delicious! It came with fries, salad and garlic bread and I had absolutely no problem leaving a clean plate! The walk back to the B&B was in complete darkness - with only my mobile phone light helping me navigate the footpath.
The Alton Barnes White Horse in the rain
Avebury to Upavon - 23 September 2020
Left my B&B after a tasty vegetarian cooked breakfast, surrounded by crystals and chatting to my friendly host, to return yet again to the World Heritage site of Avebury. Having had a good rest I was now ready to admire the stone circle. Unfortunately the weather today was not so good hence I was not inclined to take too many photos. I left Avebury to a light drizzle and at first followed the infant river Kennet, passing close by Silbury Hill and then left the trail for the short walk up hill to the impressive West Kennett Long Barrow. I rejoined the Three Stones Way at Overton Hill, having completed the Avebury Loop and after walking through the village of East Kennett it appeared that I left civilization behind as I didn't see another human being for many hours and miles. I guess that wasn't too surprising as the weather gradually got wetter and windier as I climbed steadily uphill on a track to Larkeley Hill and then continued along Wansdyke - a long, linear earthwork, built by the Saxons. Thankfully, there were plenty of sheep to talk to! Despite the weather, I decided to leave the main trail and continue on the Wansdyke to follow the Alton Barnes White Horse loop. Now that I was on top of the Pewsey Downs I started to really enjoy the walking. The rain stopped when I turned the corner and I even got a good view of the White Horse. Soon I even spotted some other walkers!
Soon it was time to leave the lofty heights and walk down to the familiar territory of Pewsey Vale by the Kennet & Avon Canal. I met Sally from London as I was consulting my map and we walked together to Honeystreet where we had tea and cake at the covid-secure cafe, talking about our outdoor adventures. By now it was 4.30 and I still had many miles to walk so I set off quite briskly along the canal towards Pewsey. It wasn't raining anymore but the sky was dull and grey - I now just wanted to get to Upavon as quickly as possible. At Ladies Bridge the trail at last headed south again. I was back on the White Horse Trail route. The light was already fading when I arrived in the village of Manningford. That, plus fatigue, was probably why I missed turn off into a hedged path. I arrived at the main Marlborough to Salisbury Road and idly checked the bus timetable at a stop - not expecting there to be any buses at this time but, miraculously, a bus arrived just at this moment - going in the right direction! I waved it down and, after scrambling to find a face mask - the bus driver would not let me on without one (quite rightly too) I got on and within a few minutes arrived at my destination. It's been a long day and I'd acquired a blister, so I was relieved to arrive at The Antelope. After showering and washing the mud off my walking trousers I went to the restaurant for dinner. The fish and chips followed by homemade apple cake (made with apples from a staff member's own tree), soon eased the various aches accumulated during this long day.
Left my B&B after a tasty vegetarian cooked breakfast, surrounded by crystals and chatting to my friendly host, to return yet again to the World Heritage site of Avebury. Having had a good rest I was now ready to admire the stone circle. Unfortunately the weather today was not so good hence I was not inclined to take too many photos. I left Avebury to a light drizzle and at first followed the infant river Kennet, passing close by Silbury Hill and then left the trail for the short walk up hill to the impressive West Kennett Long Barrow. I rejoined the Three Stones Way at Overton Hill, having completed the Avebury Loop and after walking through the village of East Kennett it appeared that I left civilization behind as I didn't see another human being for many hours and miles. I guess that wasn't too surprising as the weather gradually got wetter and windier as I climbed steadily uphill on a track to Larkeley Hill and then continued along Wansdyke - a long, linear earthwork, built by the Saxons. Thankfully, there were plenty of sheep to talk to! Despite the weather, I decided to leave the main trail and continue on the Wansdyke to follow the Alton Barnes White Horse loop. Now that I was on top of the Pewsey Downs I started to really enjoy the walking. The rain stopped when I turned the corner and I even got a good view of the White Horse. Soon I even spotted some other walkers!
Soon it was time to leave the lofty heights and walk down to the familiar territory of Pewsey Vale by the Kennet & Avon Canal. I met Sally from London as I was consulting my map and we walked together to Honeystreet where we had tea and cake at the covid-secure cafe, talking about our outdoor adventures. By now it was 4.30 and I still had many miles to walk so I set off quite briskly along the canal towards Pewsey. It wasn't raining anymore but the sky was dull and grey - I now just wanted to get to Upavon as quickly as possible. At Ladies Bridge the trail at last headed south again. I was back on the White Horse Trail route. The light was already fading when I arrived in the village of Manningford. That, plus fatigue, was probably why I missed turn off into a hedged path. I arrived at the main Marlborough to Salisbury Road and idly checked the bus timetable at a stop - not expecting there to be any buses at this time but, miraculously, a bus arrived just at this moment - going in the right direction! I waved it down and, after scrambling to find a face mask - the bus driver would not let me on without one (quite rightly too) I got on and within a few minutes arrived at my destination. It's been a long day and I'd acquired a blister, so I was relieved to arrive at The Antelope. After showering and washing the mud off my walking trousers I went to the restaurant for dinner. The fish and chips followed by homemade apple cake (made with apples from a staff member's own tree), soon eased the various aches accumulated during this long day.
On the Whitehorse Trail (before the rain)
Upavon to Durrington - 24 September 2020
The bright sunshine and beautiful sky that greeted me this morning, lifted my spirits sky high, and I couldn't wait to start walking. First, however, I had to make a decision: having taken the bus for the last couple of miles yesterday, part of me felt that I cheated.The other (more sensible) part thought that I'd deserved that shortcut and with another long day's walking ahead I should continue southwards.
I chose to walk back to the bus stop in Manningford Bohune, first on a track along the river Avon and then along the road. I had no trouble finding the Whitehorse Trail again, and the turn I missed yesterday was well signposted. A lovely section now took me past a trout farm and the picturesque surroundings of the 13th century church of St James. After that I followed a long straight farm track (highlight: spotting another White Horse on a distant hill) and then a hedged path to the village of Charlton St Peter. Arriving at a road crossing, I couldn't miss the inviting tearoom. It would, of course, have been a shame to walk past without stopping for a pot of tea and cake. So that's what I did, and lovely it was too, especially as for the next few miles, as I 'climbed' up to the top of Salisbury Plain, the weather started deteriorating, just clouds at first, then drizzle, and, when I arrived at Casterley Camp, proper driving rain! That, and the military warning signs, e.g. do not leave the track, there may be unexploded devices, and as nobody in their right mind would have ventured up here in the rain, made it feel very bleak and desolate. I was certainly very pleased when the rain stopped, and the sunshine that followed transformed the whole landscape, making walking up here enjoyable again. Soon I could see the Avon valley in the distance and eventually I reached Enford where I crossed the river. There now followed a rather tedious section of road walking and unfortunately the grey clouds and drizzle returned. In the attractive village of Netheravon, which boasts a brewery and a fish & chips bus, I sat down briefly on the village green for a snack and to contemplate how far I still had to go! If I wanted to complete the walk in daylight there was no time to linger. I had to march on. It now became a bit of a slog but I did enjoy walking through the pretty village of Figheldean with its thatched cottages and late summer flowers.
In the late afternoon the sun appeared again as I made my way towards my overnight accommodation in a quirky shepherd's hut in the backyard of the Stonehenge Inn in Durrington. Would have been lovely if it hadn't got so cold!
The bright sunshine and beautiful sky that greeted me this morning, lifted my spirits sky high, and I couldn't wait to start walking. First, however, I had to make a decision: having taken the bus for the last couple of miles yesterday, part of me felt that I cheated.The other (more sensible) part thought that I'd deserved that shortcut and with another long day's walking ahead I should continue southwards.
I chose to walk back to the bus stop in Manningford Bohune, first on a track along the river Avon and then along the road. I had no trouble finding the Whitehorse Trail again, and the turn I missed yesterday was well signposted. A lovely section now took me past a trout farm and the picturesque surroundings of the 13th century church of St James. After that I followed a long straight farm track (highlight: spotting another White Horse on a distant hill) and then a hedged path to the village of Charlton St Peter. Arriving at a road crossing, I couldn't miss the inviting tearoom. It would, of course, have been a shame to walk past without stopping for a pot of tea and cake. So that's what I did, and lovely it was too, especially as for the next few miles, as I 'climbed' up to the top of Salisbury Plain, the weather started deteriorating, just clouds at first, then drizzle, and, when I arrived at Casterley Camp, proper driving rain! That, and the military warning signs, e.g. do not leave the track, there may be unexploded devices, and as nobody in their right mind would have ventured up here in the rain, made it feel very bleak and desolate. I was certainly very pleased when the rain stopped, and the sunshine that followed transformed the whole landscape, making walking up here enjoyable again. Soon I could see the Avon valley in the distance and eventually I reached Enford where I crossed the river. There now followed a rather tedious section of road walking and unfortunately the grey clouds and drizzle returned. In the attractive village of Netheravon, which boasts a brewery and a fish & chips bus, I sat down briefly on the village green for a snack and to contemplate how far I still had to go! If I wanted to complete the walk in daylight there was no time to linger. I had to march on. It now became a bit of a slog but I did enjoy walking through the pretty village of Figheldean with its thatched cottages and late summer flowers.
In the late afternoon the sun appeared again as I made my way towards my overnight accommodation in a quirky shepherd's hut in the backyard of the Stonehenge Inn in Durrington. Would have been lovely if it hadn't got so cold!
On the way to Stonehenge
Durrington to Salisbury - 25 September 2020
Because of the covid-19 restriction, the restaurant was unable to provide the usual breakfast buffet and I had to make do with the pre-prepared breakfast laid out in the hut, things like instant porridge, fruit and cold croissants (obviously not freshly baked). I ate the croissants, saved the cereal bar and fruit for lunch, filled up my flask with hot tea, and was soon ready to brave the cold northerly wind - the hot summer weather of Monday and Tuesday just a distant memory now.
By the time I arrived at nearby Woodhenge, I had warmed up and the walking from here to Stonehenge was wonderful. The sun shone brightly and the sky was a beautiful clear blue, dotted with fair weather cotton wool clouds. The approach to Stonehenge was on a grassy path and walking towards the site was magical. All I could see was the Stones, the beautiful sky, and the green grass. Some people say there's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing - I disagree! As I neared the prehistoric site, the magic was slightly spoiled by the ugly fence surrounding it. I turned westwards towards a track that then turned south to reach the busy A303. Making it to the other side was anything but straightforward. I stood there wondering if a gap in the fairly slow moving rubber-necking traffic would ever open up; it didn't, but thankfully a considerate lorry driver slowed down (and hence the car on the opposite carriageway also slowed down) to allow me to safely cross. Phew!
I now left behind not only the traffic but people. After a quick chat with a couple of walkers going in the opposite direction, I walked across the lonely downs on a broad track. So glad the sun was still shining and the sky still lovely, as the earth view became a bit monotonous. I needed a change of scenery and that came when the trail headed uphill through woodland. At the top I enjoyed some lovely views over a valley and a large country house which, according to my guidebook, belongs to Sting and his wife. Soon the path wound its way downhill to reach the river Avon again. It would have been nice to see a bit more of the river but the trail was never quite near enough, until it reached the village of Upper Woodford. Here I stopped in the 'Bridge at Woodford' pub garden for a refreshing drink. That prepared me for the seemingly endless walk along the road to Netton and beyond. So glad when my walk took me away from the road, and headed steeply uphill through woodland before emerging at the top. From here I had lovely views across the Avon Valley.
I was now on the straight path to Old Serum, which I found surprisingly impressive. Although I was starting to feel tired, I found the energy to walk up to the top of the earthwork and all around the Iron Age Hill Fort. The remains of a Norman castle at the top were off limit for me (run by English Heritage, about to close, and pre-booking required due to covid restrictions) but at least I was able to make use of the public convenience before walking down into Salisbury to my B&B. So far on this trip, there was only ever one convenient option for dinner but today I had a choice. I chose to eat in a Turkish restaurant. The decor and delicious food reminded me of my holiday in Turkey last year when travel was still straightforward.
Because of the covid-19 restriction, the restaurant was unable to provide the usual breakfast buffet and I had to make do with the pre-prepared breakfast laid out in the hut, things like instant porridge, fruit and cold croissants (obviously not freshly baked). I ate the croissants, saved the cereal bar and fruit for lunch, filled up my flask with hot tea, and was soon ready to brave the cold northerly wind - the hot summer weather of Monday and Tuesday just a distant memory now.
By the time I arrived at nearby Woodhenge, I had warmed up and the walking from here to Stonehenge was wonderful. The sun shone brightly and the sky was a beautiful clear blue, dotted with fair weather cotton wool clouds. The approach to Stonehenge was on a grassy path and walking towards the site was magical. All I could see was the Stones, the beautiful sky, and the green grass. Some people say there's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing - I disagree! As I neared the prehistoric site, the magic was slightly spoiled by the ugly fence surrounding it. I turned westwards towards a track that then turned south to reach the busy A303. Making it to the other side was anything but straightforward. I stood there wondering if a gap in the fairly slow moving rubber-necking traffic would ever open up; it didn't, but thankfully a considerate lorry driver slowed down (and hence the car on the opposite carriageway also slowed down) to allow me to safely cross. Phew!
I now left behind not only the traffic but people. After a quick chat with a couple of walkers going in the opposite direction, I walked across the lonely downs on a broad track. So glad the sun was still shining and the sky still lovely, as the earth view became a bit monotonous. I needed a change of scenery and that came when the trail headed uphill through woodland. At the top I enjoyed some lovely views over a valley and a large country house which, according to my guidebook, belongs to Sting and his wife. Soon the path wound its way downhill to reach the river Avon again. It would have been nice to see a bit more of the river but the trail was never quite near enough, until it reached the village of Upper Woodford. Here I stopped in the 'Bridge at Woodford' pub garden for a refreshing drink. That prepared me for the seemingly endless walk along the road to Netton and beyond. So glad when my walk took me away from the road, and headed steeply uphill through woodland before emerging at the top. From here I had lovely views across the Avon Valley.
I was now on the straight path to Old Serum, which I found surprisingly impressive. Although I was starting to feel tired, I found the energy to walk up to the top of the earthwork and all around the Iron Age Hill Fort. The remains of a Norman castle at the top were off limit for me (run by English Heritage, about to close, and pre-booking required due to covid restrictions) but at least I was able to make use of the public convenience before walking down into Salisbury to my B&B. So far on this trip, there was only ever one convenient option for dinner but today I had a choice. I chose to eat in a Turkish restaurant. The decor and delicious food reminded me of my holiday in Turkey last year when travel was still straightforward.
Cathedral and Henry Moore sculpture
Salisbury - Saturday 26 September 2020
After a delicious breakfast I packed my bag, deposited it in the B&B host's shed and walked unencumbered into the city centre. The cathedral looked magnificent in the bright sunshine. I couldn't have wished for a better day. Because of covid restrictions it was necessary to pre-book a visit and luckily there was an available slot in early afternoon. In the meantime, I admired the artworks outside the cathedral and the beautiful architecture of the buildings around Cathedral Square. I wandered around the busy shopping area and bustling market before returning to the cathedral for lunch in the refectory, with boasts cathedral views through the glass roof.
The spirituality of the cathedral provided a fitting end to this trip. I admired the stained glass windows and various artworks and displays, the old mechanical clock, and, of course, one of the few remaining (and best preserved) original Magna Carta documents. The reduction in visitor numbers allowed for an enjoyable, unhurried and uncrowded visit. I was also pleased that my visit coincided with the Spirit & Endeavour Contemporary Art Exhibition (April 2020 - April 2021).
All that was left to do now was retrieve my backpack, head to the nearby station and hop on the train back to Reading (via Basingstoke).
After a delicious breakfast I packed my bag, deposited it in the B&B host's shed and walked unencumbered into the city centre. The cathedral looked magnificent in the bright sunshine. I couldn't have wished for a better day. Because of covid restrictions it was necessary to pre-book a visit and luckily there was an available slot in early afternoon. In the meantime, I admired the artworks outside the cathedral and the beautiful architecture of the buildings around Cathedral Square. I wandered around the busy shopping area and bustling market before returning to the cathedral for lunch in the refectory, with boasts cathedral views through the glass roof.
The spirituality of the cathedral provided a fitting end to this trip. I admired the stained glass windows and various artworks and displays, the old mechanical clock, and, of course, one of the few remaining (and best preserved) original Magna Carta documents. The reduction in visitor numbers allowed for an enjoyable, unhurried and uncrowded visit. I was also pleased that my visit coincided with the Spirit & Endeavour Contemporary Art Exhibition (April 2020 - April 2021).
All that was left to do now was retrieve my backpack, head to the nearby station and hop on the train back to Reading (via Basingstoke).
Day 4 - Figheldean
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Day 5 - Old Sarum
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Day 6 - Salisbury Cathedral
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