The Thames Path
Old Man's Bridge
|
The Round House, Inglesham
|
Newbridge to the Source
Rushey Lock
Newbridge to Lechlade
Tuesday, 2 October 2018
Woke up early to the ringing of the alarm clock. I’d slept surprisingly well, considering the complicated travel schedule to reach Newbridge, and the slightly scary but exciting prospect of a three day solo trip to complete my Thames Path walk. Travel as far as Oxford was straightforward but then I hit a little snag. The bus to Witney I planned on getting did not arrive. I had to get the later one and only just made the connection to the No 15 Witney to Abingdon bus that would drop me off at ‘The Rose Revived’ at Newbridge. Missing it would have meant a two hour wait for the next one or an expensive taxi ride.
As soon as I started walking, all worries simply melted away and I enjoyed the sense of complete freedom that a walk through wide-open countryside brings. The cloudy skies soon brightened as I walked the first few miles in complete solitude. The river here meanders through the most remote Oxfordshire countryside. I left the Thames Path briefly, crossing a footbridge to Shifford Lock, to find a nice spot for ‘elevenses’. The path then continued through a nice area of woodland and along the Chimney Meadows nature reserve.
With no map reading or tricky route finding to occupy myself with this morning, all that was required was putting one foot in front of the other and enjoying nature, taking photos and greeting cows. At lunchtime I arrived at the old Tadpole Bridge. This is the first road crossing since Newbridge. I resisted the temptation to eat a hot lunch at the Trout Inn but did stop long enough to enjoy a cup of coffee. A brief look at the map was enough to show me that I still had a long way to go, so I soon left the pub (and people) to resume the walk.The path now followed a paved access track to pretty Rushey Lock. I stopped for my picnic lunch before continuing to walk along the meandering Thames. The peace and quiet were now interrupted at regular intervals by aircraft noise. Military planes landed and took off from a nearby airfield. Well into the afternoon, I saw, at last, some other walkers, as well as a few swans and a couple more herds of cows. Soon after passing Radcot Lock the path crosses to the other side at Radcot Bridge. I wanted to stop at The Swan. This was one of the T184 checkpoints and I was thinking of Chrissie and how relieved she must have been when she arrived here in the dark – sleep-deprived and exhausted. The pub looked deserted, maybe it was closed on this midweek afternoon, so I continued walking. There were now a few boats on the river or moored alongside, particularly around Grafton Lock, and generally I got the feeling that I was now in a much busier riverside environment.
I made the short detour to the village of Kelmscott. Kelmscott Manor, home for 25 years of the ‘19th century poet, craftsman, designer and socialist’ (trail guide quote) was unfortunately closed and the high stone walls did a good job of obscuring the view, but the village was picturesque and worthy of the detour. The pub was open and the pot of tea and chat with a couple of villagers and the barmaid were just what I needed to revive my tired legs and mind. One of the locals pointed me in the direction of an alternative path back to the Thames which avoided backtracking. I was now well on the way to Lechlade. At St John’s Lock I paid my respect and took a photo of ‘Old Father Thames’ (a stone statue commissioned in 1854 for the grounds of Crystal Palace and later brought here). The sun was slowly setting, and walking on the grassy path under a beautiful sky, geese taking off at regular intervals, Lechlade town with the prominent steeple of St Lawrence Church in sight, provided a fitting finale to today’s walk.
My hotel was ideally situated just across the river. I enjoyed dinner in the bar area, watched a bit of football (Manchester United v Valencia) while enjoying a glass of wine before retiring to my room, reflecting on a good day’s walking and pleased that I managed the 17 miles quite comfortably and only had one small blister on my little toe.
Tuesday, 2 October 2018
Woke up early to the ringing of the alarm clock. I’d slept surprisingly well, considering the complicated travel schedule to reach Newbridge, and the slightly scary but exciting prospect of a three day solo trip to complete my Thames Path walk. Travel as far as Oxford was straightforward but then I hit a little snag. The bus to Witney I planned on getting did not arrive. I had to get the later one and only just made the connection to the No 15 Witney to Abingdon bus that would drop me off at ‘The Rose Revived’ at Newbridge. Missing it would have meant a two hour wait for the next one or an expensive taxi ride.
As soon as I started walking, all worries simply melted away and I enjoyed the sense of complete freedom that a walk through wide-open countryside brings. The cloudy skies soon brightened as I walked the first few miles in complete solitude. The river here meanders through the most remote Oxfordshire countryside. I left the Thames Path briefly, crossing a footbridge to Shifford Lock, to find a nice spot for ‘elevenses’. The path then continued through a nice area of woodland and along the Chimney Meadows nature reserve.
With no map reading or tricky route finding to occupy myself with this morning, all that was required was putting one foot in front of the other and enjoying nature, taking photos and greeting cows. At lunchtime I arrived at the old Tadpole Bridge. This is the first road crossing since Newbridge. I resisted the temptation to eat a hot lunch at the Trout Inn but did stop long enough to enjoy a cup of coffee. A brief look at the map was enough to show me that I still had a long way to go, so I soon left the pub (and people) to resume the walk.The path now followed a paved access track to pretty Rushey Lock. I stopped for my picnic lunch before continuing to walk along the meandering Thames. The peace and quiet were now interrupted at regular intervals by aircraft noise. Military planes landed and took off from a nearby airfield. Well into the afternoon, I saw, at last, some other walkers, as well as a few swans and a couple more herds of cows. Soon after passing Radcot Lock the path crosses to the other side at Radcot Bridge. I wanted to stop at The Swan. This was one of the T184 checkpoints and I was thinking of Chrissie and how relieved she must have been when she arrived here in the dark – sleep-deprived and exhausted. The pub looked deserted, maybe it was closed on this midweek afternoon, so I continued walking. There were now a few boats on the river or moored alongside, particularly around Grafton Lock, and generally I got the feeling that I was now in a much busier riverside environment.
I made the short detour to the village of Kelmscott. Kelmscott Manor, home for 25 years of the ‘19th century poet, craftsman, designer and socialist’ (trail guide quote) was unfortunately closed and the high stone walls did a good job of obscuring the view, but the village was picturesque and worthy of the detour. The pub was open and the pot of tea and chat with a couple of villagers and the barmaid were just what I needed to revive my tired legs and mind. One of the locals pointed me in the direction of an alternative path back to the Thames which avoided backtracking. I was now well on the way to Lechlade. At St John’s Lock I paid my respect and took a photo of ‘Old Father Thames’ (a stone statue commissioned in 1854 for the grounds of Crystal Palace and later brought here). The sun was slowly setting, and walking on the grassy path under a beautiful sky, geese taking off at regular intervals, Lechlade town with the prominent steeple of St Lawrence Church in sight, provided a fitting finale to today’s walk.
My hotel was ideally situated just across the river. I enjoyed dinner in the bar area, watched a bit of football (Manchester United v Valencia) while enjoying a glass of wine before retiring to my room, reflecting on a good day’s walking and pleased that I managed the 17 miles quite comfortably and only had one small blister on my little toe.
The Natural Thames
Lechlade to Cricklade
Wednesday, 3 October 2018
Even though my room in the old coaching inn faced the main road, I slept well and woke up refreshed. After a breakfast of yoghurt, fruit, smoked salmon and eggs I was in great shape to continue walking. The distance I had to cover today was ‘only’ 11 miles so I made time to visit St Lawrence Church. It’s a beautiful church so I was sad to be told by a local couple that vandals or criminals damaged some of the stained glass windows. It is such a shame that churches that are left open for the public, as they should be, are no longer immune from criminal damage.
After a last look round Lechlade I returned to the riverside to continue the walk through the Lechlade riverside park and meadows to the small hamlet of Inglesham. Here the now defunct Thames-Severn Canal once joined the Thames by Round House Farm. The Round House, one of several along the canal, was used as living quarters for the lock keeper.
I was glad that I made time to step into the little church (St John the Baptist). The 13th century stonework, frescoes and Jacobean pulpit have been conserved rather than modernised. It really is a little gem and I was happy to make a small contribution to the Churches Conservation Trust who are taking care of the building.
Leaving Inglesham the path now follows the Thames on a new riverside path. Previously, walkers had to follow a road section in this area whereas now the path closely follows the river on a grassy path on the edge of a meadow. The cows seemed quite happy to share their pasture with hikers. A few other walkers (five, to be precise) passed me as they walked in the opposite direction. They were a visitor from New Zealand walking with his friend who lives in Swindon, and a separate group of three young women. Other than that, I had the countryside to myself and I enjoyed listening to the birds that were at home in the trees and shrubs lining the river. Eventually the path does turn away from the river, but I didn’t mind as I liked the variety and particularly enjoyed walking through a large field and then along a wooded area, disturbing pheasants and/or partridges along the way.
There was a brief reunion with the diminishing river before it disappeared again, and the Thames Path now followed the road into Castle Eaton. I found a bench with a view in the churchyard, which provided a good spot for my lunch. The Red Lion was the location for another checkpoint on the T184 but I didn’t stop, preferring to carry on walking to Cricklade. The sun was now shining and it was quite hot for the time of year. I sought out the shade, walking close to the shrubbery alongside the river. There was a subtle difference in the landscape as it changed from flat to slightly hilly. It felt as if I’d arrived in the Cotswolds. Soon I arrived in Cricklade, hot and thirsty, and was pleased to find an attractive town and thriving High Street with plenty of watering holes and places to eat. What I really needed now was a pot of tea, cake and a comfy place to sit, and I found all this in The Barista café.
My overnight accommodation was in a converted stable cottage at the back of The Old Bear and after settling in, I went in search of dinner. I chose to eat at the Jic Saw Thai Restaurant, just a few minutes from my lodging; this was recommended to me by the hotel receptionist at the New Inn in Lechlade, and I was not disappointed. The staff were friendly and the food delicious. I finished off the meal with a peppermint tea, and was then glad to be able to return to my room through the back gate of the busy pub, rather than having to pass through it.
Wednesday, 3 October 2018
Even though my room in the old coaching inn faced the main road, I slept well and woke up refreshed. After a breakfast of yoghurt, fruit, smoked salmon and eggs I was in great shape to continue walking. The distance I had to cover today was ‘only’ 11 miles so I made time to visit St Lawrence Church. It’s a beautiful church so I was sad to be told by a local couple that vandals or criminals damaged some of the stained glass windows. It is such a shame that churches that are left open for the public, as they should be, are no longer immune from criminal damage.
After a last look round Lechlade I returned to the riverside to continue the walk through the Lechlade riverside park and meadows to the small hamlet of Inglesham. Here the now defunct Thames-Severn Canal once joined the Thames by Round House Farm. The Round House, one of several along the canal, was used as living quarters for the lock keeper.
I was glad that I made time to step into the little church (St John the Baptist). The 13th century stonework, frescoes and Jacobean pulpit have been conserved rather than modernised. It really is a little gem and I was happy to make a small contribution to the Churches Conservation Trust who are taking care of the building.
Leaving Inglesham the path now follows the Thames on a new riverside path. Previously, walkers had to follow a road section in this area whereas now the path closely follows the river on a grassy path on the edge of a meadow. The cows seemed quite happy to share their pasture with hikers. A few other walkers (five, to be precise) passed me as they walked in the opposite direction. They were a visitor from New Zealand walking with his friend who lives in Swindon, and a separate group of three young women. Other than that, I had the countryside to myself and I enjoyed listening to the birds that were at home in the trees and shrubs lining the river. Eventually the path does turn away from the river, but I didn’t mind as I liked the variety and particularly enjoyed walking through a large field and then along a wooded area, disturbing pheasants and/or partridges along the way.
There was a brief reunion with the diminishing river before it disappeared again, and the Thames Path now followed the road into Castle Eaton. I found a bench with a view in the churchyard, which provided a good spot for my lunch. The Red Lion was the location for another checkpoint on the T184 but I didn’t stop, preferring to carry on walking to Cricklade. The sun was now shining and it was quite hot for the time of year. I sought out the shade, walking close to the shrubbery alongside the river. There was a subtle difference in the landscape as it changed from flat to slightly hilly. It felt as if I’d arrived in the Cotswolds. Soon I arrived in Cricklade, hot and thirsty, and was pleased to find an attractive town and thriving High Street with plenty of watering holes and places to eat. What I really needed now was a pot of tea, cake and a comfy place to sit, and I found all this in The Barista café.
My overnight accommodation was in a converted stable cottage at the back of The Old Bear and after settling in, I went in search of dinner. I chose to eat at the Jic Saw Thai Restaurant, just a few minutes from my lodging; this was recommended to me by the hotel receptionist at the New Inn in Lechlade, and I was not disappointed. The staff were friendly and the food delicious. I finished off the meal with a peppermint tea, and was then glad to be able to return to my room through the back gate of the busy pub, rather than having to pass through it.
Nearly there!
Cricklade to the Source
Thursday, 4 October 2018
I didn’t sleep quite as well as last night and woke up early. The inn didn’t serve breakfast so, after an instant coffee, I showered and packed up, looking forward to the final section of the Thames Path. I considered popping into one of the cafés for a cooked breakfast but, to save time, I bought the day’s food provisions in the local supermarket. As I rejoined the trail at the foot of the High Street on this misty morning, any gloom was soon lifted by the sight of a statuesque heron waiting patiently for the right time to catch breakfast. Leaving Cricklade the path continued through meadows grazed by horses and alongside the North Meadow National Nature Reserve. The river ‘popped up’ every now and again but was often hidden behind shrubs and trees. When I reached a disused railway track I crossed it rather than follow it for a short distance and continued on a bridlepath. I eventually realised my mistake but a look at the map assured me that backtracking was not necessary as a footpath would join the Thames Path again by one of the lakes of the Cotswold Water Park.
For the next few miles the path winds its way alongside and between the many Cotswold Water Park lakes. These have been created by gravel extraction and are now a haven for wildlife and some are used for water sports. I was getting hungry didn’t pass any picnic benches so I ate my late breakfast sandwich on the hop. I heard voices and spotted three other walkers behind me – the first people I’ve seen since leaving Cricklade. I let them pass as I wanted to eat my breakfast in peace and needed privacy for a comfort break. Manorbrooke Lake, one of the larger lakes, looked picturesque now as the sun was trying to break through the mist. Soon I approached Ashton Keynes and I managed to lose my way again! I followed a road which I thought was going in the right direction but soon realised that it can’t be right. I asked an elderly gentleman for directions back to the path and he pointed me towards the village centre. The detour meant that I saw a lot more of this lovely village and its cottages built of Cotswold stone. The Thames which has been engineered here to flow through stonewalled channels looked in danger of drying up completely and the ducks struggled to find enough water to swim in.
Leaving Ashton Keynes, the path continues between lakes and a ditch, which presumably is the Thames. After carefully crossing a road with fast moving traffic, I arrived at Neigh Bridge Country Park. The sun has now well and truly won the battle with the fog and was shining brightly for the rest of the day. I sat down by the edge of the beautiful lake to eat the rest of my ‘value meal’. Further along the shore two women were packing up to continue their cycle ride, returning to Cirencester. One of them actually swam in the lake! It was so warm now that I was tempted to follow her example but swimming was not on my agenda and I still had a long way to go. The Thames, often just a dry ditch now, continued in a north-westerly direction towards the source. The river was now much less of a focus and it was the scenery and landscape that made for excellent walking. It was slightly hilly, there were sheep, lots of birds singing, and lovely, extensive views. Woodlands have started taking on a little autumn colouring and looked glorious against the blue sky. Walking on the grassy path was a pleasure. There was a short road section in Ewen and here I met a couple of young men who were thinking of walking to Marlow in the next few days. They obviously had the enthusiasm required but were not well prepared for the trek. They asked me if there was a shop nearby where they could buy water. I pointed them towards the centre of the village, where there’s a pub. On asking whether they were going to camp, their reply was that they were hoping to stay in B&Bs along the route. I wished them luck and continued on my way.
I was now striding along the last stretch with the source of the great River Thames in sight – unmistakable when the modest stone (and a little stone circle marking the exact source) came into view. I was pleased and surprised at having the (dry) spot all to myself. After a while a young man arrived and I did something I rarely do – I asked him to take a photo of me and stone. After reflecting on this great walk, delighted that I’ve completed it but at the same time a little sad that the adventure has ended, I made my way downhill towards Kemble station. The last walker whose path I crossed was a young guy (German?) with a large backpack. He is planning to walk to Oxford, camping along the way. Good luck to him!
At Kemble station I joined several other walkers I saw on the way today, including the three in the Cotswold Water Park, all waiting to get on the London bound train. This three day walk has surpassed my expectation and was wonderful for several reasons: good weather, great walking and lovely scenery as well as a handful of friendly people!
Thursday, 4 October 2018
I didn’t sleep quite as well as last night and woke up early. The inn didn’t serve breakfast so, after an instant coffee, I showered and packed up, looking forward to the final section of the Thames Path. I considered popping into one of the cafés for a cooked breakfast but, to save time, I bought the day’s food provisions in the local supermarket. As I rejoined the trail at the foot of the High Street on this misty morning, any gloom was soon lifted by the sight of a statuesque heron waiting patiently for the right time to catch breakfast. Leaving Cricklade the path continued through meadows grazed by horses and alongside the North Meadow National Nature Reserve. The river ‘popped up’ every now and again but was often hidden behind shrubs and trees. When I reached a disused railway track I crossed it rather than follow it for a short distance and continued on a bridlepath. I eventually realised my mistake but a look at the map assured me that backtracking was not necessary as a footpath would join the Thames Path again by one of the lakes of the Cotswold Water Park.
For the next few miles the path winds its way alongside and between the many Cotswold Water Park lakes. These have been created by gravel extraction and are now a haven for wildlife and some are used for water sports. I was getting hungry didn’t pass any picnic benches so I ate my late breakfast sandwich on the hop. I heard voices and spotted three other walkers behind me – the first people I’ve seen since leaving Cricklade. I let them pass as I wanted to eat my breakfast in peace and needed privacy for a comfort break. Manorbrooke Lake, one of the larger lakes, looked picturesque now as the sun was trying to break through the mist. Soon I approached Ashton Keynes and I managed to lose my way again! I followed a road which I thought was going in the right direction but soon realised that it can’t be right. I asked an elderly gentleman for directions back to the path and he pointed me towards the village centre. The detour meant that I saw a lot more of this lovely village and its cottages built of Cotswold stone. The Thames which has been engineered here to flow through stonewalled channels looked in danger of drying up completely and the ducks struggled to find enough water to swim in.
Leaving Ashton Keynes, the path continues between lakes and a ditch, which presumably is the Thames. After carefully crossing a road with fast moving traffic, I arrived at Neigh Bridge Country Park. The sun has now well and truly won the battle with the fog and was shining brightly for the rest of the day. I sat down by the edge of the beautiful lake to eat the rest of my ‘value meal’. Further along the shore two women were packing up to continue their cycle ride, returning to Cirencester. One of them actually swam in the lake! It was so warm now that I was tempted to follow her example but swimming was not on my agenda and I still had a long way to go. The Thames, often just a dry ditch now, continued in a north-westerly direction towards the source. The river was now much less of a focus and it was the scenery and landscape that made for excellent walking. It was slightly hilly, there were sheep, lots of birds singing, and lovely, extensive views. Woodlands have started taking on a little autumn colouring and looked glorious against the blue sky. Walking on the grassy path was a pleasure. There was a short road section in Ewen and here I met a couple of young men who were thinking of walking to Marlow in the next few days. They obviously had the enthusiasm required but were not well prepared for the trek. They asked me if there was a shop nearby where they could buy water. I pointed them towards the centre of the village, where there’s a pub. On asking whether they were going to camp, their reply was that they were hoping to stay in B&Bs along the route. I wished them luck and continued on my way.
I was now striding along the last stretch with the source of the great River Thames in sight – unmistakable when the modest stone (and a little stone circle marking the exact source) came into view. I was pleased and surprised at having the (dry) spot all to myself. After a while a young man arrived and I did something I rarely do – I asked him to take a photo of me and stone. After reflecting on this great walk, delighted that I’ve completed it but at the same time a little sad that the adventure has ended, I made my way downhill towards Kemble station. The last walker whose path I crossed was a young guy (German?) with a large backpack. He is planning to walk to Oxford, camping along the way. Good luck to him!
At Kemble station I joined several other walkers I saw on the way today, including the three in the Cotswold Water Park, all waiting to get on the London bound train. This three day walk has surpassed my expectation and was wonderful for several reasons: good weather, great walking and lovely scenery as well as a handful of friendly people!
My highlights:
Transport:
- Scenery all along the walk
- Lechlade and Cricklade – good accommodation and food
- Reaching the Source - more than three years after starting the walk at the Thames Barrier in London
- Ducks, swans, herons, geese, coots and moorhens
- Songbirds, game birds
- Horses, cows and sheep, chicken, rabbits, squirrels
Transport:
- Train Reading to Oxford, bus Stagecoach S1 to Witney, Stagecoach No 15 to Newbridge
- Return: Great Western train Kemble to Reading (via Swindon)
- Day 1: Pubs at Newbridge, Tadpole Bridge, Radcot Bridge, Kelmscott. Inns, restaurants in Lechlade
- Day 2: Pub in Castle Eaton, choice of cafés, pubs and restaurants in Cricklade
- Day 3: Shop and pub in Ashton Keynes, pubs in Ewen, Kemble
Ashton Keynes
|
The Stone
|